From collection Creating Acadia National Park: The George B. Dorr Research Archive of Ronald H. Epp

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A Peripatetic Education Mr Dorr's Island Wanderings FOA Journal 20 #2 Summer 2015
Mr.Darris Island Wanderings."
"A Peripatatic Edecat on:
FOA Journal 20.42(Summer 2015).
Acadia History
A PERIPATETIC EDUCATION:
MR. DORR'S ISLAND "WANDERINGS"
By Ronald Epp
Note: This article is adapted from the forth-
coming biography of George B. Dorr, to be
published in spring 2016 by Friends of Acadia.
This is the second in a series of excerpts to be
featured in the Journal, leading up to Acadia's
centennial year.
uring the last two decades of the
D
19th century, George B. Dorr would
routinely leave behind the com-
forts of his family's Oldfarm residence in
Bar Harbor for the challenges of the rug-
ged landscape of Mount Desert Island. In
due course he became very familiar with
the seasonal strengths and weaknesses of
its landscapes. In effect, Dorr opened him-
self to the environment, enabling the island
and its surrounding waters to educate him
about the power of this place.
Family heritage, education, and exten-
sive travel through Mediterranean and
European countries well prepared Dorr to
pursue on the coast of Maine the natural
landscapes where human events flour-
ished and then faded. On lands histori-
cally contested by the English and French,
he was most interested in the enduring
landscape features that survived those re-
curring conflicts-which is not to say that
he was disinterested in how the character
of the landscape inspired humankind to
realize new heights.
Dorr used his wealth to protect lands
that were not fully healed from damage
done in earlier generations. Each outing on
Mrs. Annie C.S. Kane and George B. Dorr walk on the Kane Path, on what is now named Dorr Mountain.
the island's network of footpaths acquaint-
ed Dorr with continuing threats to land
What Henry David Thoreau called "bare
posed by the surrounding sea, he surely re-
wrecked by logging and fire. One promi-
and pathless rock" forced Dorr and others
called his countryside walking experiences
nent tourist guide, Clara Martin, described
to judge carefully where to plant the next
in England, where footpath rights-of-way
the island environment in the years follow-
step, a difficult decision when bare gran-
were deeply ingrained in common law.
ing the Civil War: "The forest primeval is
ite stretched for hundreds of feet-and the
Walking was not undertaken for exer-
gone; but huge stumps and scathed trunks
footpath disappeared. Thoreau's favorite
cise. Dorr's goal was akin to what Thoreau
show what the axe and the fires have done.
mode of walking was 'cross-lots' on a com-
referred to in his posthumously published
The three western mountains are covered
pass line, a risky strategy that trespassed
essay on Walking: "What business have I in
with a second growth, but the other sum-
private land. When Dorr instead followed
the woods if I am thinking of something
mits are bleak and bare."
the island topography and the limits im-
out of the woods." The sheer joy of explo-
12 Summer 2015
Friends of Acadia Journal
Vol. 20, # 2
ration and of recovering one's bearings after
restore and sustain historic and indigenous
getting lost was balanced by Dorr's persis-
conditions? Through repeated exploration
tent effort to commit to memory exacting
of the land and seascape, Dorr came to real-
details of his journeys. This reservoir of de-
ize that "The earth is our common heritage.
tail proved critical in planning future trails,
It is both right and needful that it should
acquiring conservation properties, iden-
be kept widely free in the portions that the
tifying biological resources and geological
homes of men, industry, and agriculture do
features-not to mention the importance
not claim."
of this stored experience for later recom-
William James, the father of American
mendations to the National Park Service
psychology, grasped the melding of the
and John D. Rockefeller Jr.
natural forces that Dorr experienced, the
In planning new trails to wend their way
"strength" and "character" of Mount Desert
through the island landscape, Dorr ap-
Island. He wrote to his wife, Alice, that his
plied some advice contained in an Atlantic
"Mt. Desert visit was a success, especially
Monthly essay published a month after he
For early summer visitors to Mount Desert Island,
yesterday with its fine weather, which [he
entered Harvard College in 1870. Therein,
like this group atop Sargent Mountain around 1903,
and Dorr] spent on a big walk over the
a family friend, Unitarian minister, literary
expeditions on foot to the island's summits and
Mountains. I had no idea of the strength
figure, and social reform activist, Thomas
coastlines were an important social activity.
of that Island." On that same day, in a let-
Wentworth Higginson, extolled the bene-
ter to experimental psychologist James M.
fits of footpaths. "Instead of striking across
officials, Dorr often referred to these pre-
Baldwin, James referred to "a glorious day
the natural lines, [the footpath] conforms
European paths as single-lane footways
yesterday-steam launch to Seal Harbor
to them, nestles into the hollow, skirts
only wide enough for one person. A central
then over Sargent's Mountain. never
the precipice, avoids the morass. An un-
principle that Dorr promoted-and that
saw SO much character in SO few miles."
conscious landscape-gardener there are
was adhered to by Native Americans-was
As the close of the nineteenth century
a thousand concealed fitnesses in nature,
that the "earth led the path, not human in-
neared, new path development as well as
rhymed correspondences of bird and blos-
clination to 'challenge' the landscape." Path
the marking of established paths attracted
som, for which you must seek through the
refinements were not intended to manipu-
larger numbers of island residents, season-
most hidden paths."
late landscape but to adapt to it.
al residents, and tourists. No other resort
Higginson claimed that well-designed
Some excursions were rambles; others
could offer anything aesthetically compa-
footpaths provided intimate knowledge of
were focused efforts to decipher the power
rable to the island's 'walk and talk' oppor-
both nature and the walker. "It is only in
of place. Each new hike enlarged his con-
tunities, and only on Mount Desert Island
the footpath that our minds, like our bod-
sciousness of that power implicit in the
did a person's social prestige depended on
ies, move slowly, and we traverse thought,
extraordinary natural variation within the
the number of pedestrian miles accom-
like space, with a patient thoroughness."
island's one hundred square miles: that
plished up and down the torturous trails
The summer after that essay was pub-
is, seascape, coastline, rugged headlands,
each summer.
lished, while hiking in Italy's Lake Como
mountains, valleys, freshwater lakes and
Dorr allied himself with Bar Harbor
region, Dorr experienced what Higginson
ponds, watersheds, wildlife, and more than
Village Improvement Association Roads
had described. Even earlier, in 1868, when
four hundred species of plants.
and Paths Committee chairmen Herbert
the Dorr family first visited Mount Des-
As cottage development during the
Jacques, Waldron Bates, and Edward Rand.
ert Island, Dorr's memoirs reveal a young
last two decades of the nineteenth cen-
The BHVIA initially led the way develop-
man unconsciously mimicking Thoreau,
tury accelerated, from his various footpath
ing path-making techniques, stabilizing
who "would fain forget all my morning OC-
perches Dorr saw the loss of landscape as
path conditions, erecting and standardizing
cupations and my obligations to society."
prominent families "from away" rapidly de-
signs, building footbridges, and publishing
Many of us who have experienced Acadia's
veloped the shoreline. In his memoirs Dorr
sophisticated island maps. Dorr collaborat-
trail system may identify with Higginson's
reflected on the consequences of residential
ed with Jacques on a half-mile connector
feeling that "he had never experienced SO
development, of increased footpath use, of
path-for walking and carriages-through
much, existed SO thoroughly, lived SO truly,
landscapes privatized and no longer open
a heavily wooded area from Schooner Head
and been so wholly himself, as during his
to public access.
Road to the base of Champlain Mountain to
travels on foot." Dorr clearly felt the same.
Might not the best response to the diz-
Otter Creek Road.
Dorr and Waldron Bates, widely con-
zying consequences of rapid residential
Two years earlier, as chair of the BHVIA
sidered the island's two preeminent path-
development lie beneath Dorr's feet? After
Bicycle Path Committee, Dorr completed
makers, believed that Native American
all, had not Frederick Law Olmsted shown
construction of a nearly mile-long path
footpaths frequently provided the best
that landscape possesses the power to
around the Beaver Dam Pool on Bear Brook
guidance for trail direction. In his cor-
transform human aspirations? Might it be
Valley land that he owned. This lovely shel-
respondence with National Park Service
feasible to develop natural reservations to
tered sanctuary on the flank of Champlain
Friends of Acadia Journal
Summer 2015
13
Mountain held special significance for his
is that "individual features of the landscape
mother, Mary Gray Ward Dorr. Her friend,
and its play of light and shadow" must not
Marian Lawrence Peabody, described Dorr's
be "swallowed up in an unbroken sea of
path as "heavenly smooth with pine nee-
mixed foliage."
dles and the sun just flickering through."
Dorr's years of European travel, im-
Dorr reveled in the familiarity of his fa-
mersing him in both formal and pictur-
vorite places. From these sites he inhaled
esque aesthetics, informed his belief in
the fragrance of the flora and the soil that
an aesthetic superiority of landscape that
nourished it, straining his weak eyes sea-
included open space, cultivated terrain,
ward to watch shorebirds skirt the white
or human habitation. His emerging con-
crests of distant waves moving shoreward.
servation philosophy was both pluralistic
To be sure, he retraced his steps, climb-
and cumulative. Dorr's uncle, aesthetician
ing one more peak even though he had
and banker Samuel G. Ward, expressed
been there too often to keep count. New
this view as well within the context of Eu-
observations, photographed images, and
ropean culture: "Painters' mountains must
questions received attention later when he
be varied with peaks and hollow curves
consulted specialized publications in his
and associated with human habitation or
extensive libraries at Oldfarm and the ad-
occupation to relieve their austerity." Dorr
jacent Storm Beach Collage.
saw varied terrain elements as necessary
These "wanderings," as Mary Dorr de-
for the sake of the larger whole, suggestive
scribed the island journeys of her son, were
of the ecological philosophy that would be
often in the company of relatives, friends,
developed by the scientific community a
and village improvement acquaintances.
half-century later.
Even in their company, Dorr scrutinized
As the new century beckoned, Dorr
trail conditions, paying attention to the
would repeatedly travel across America
effects of erosion, glaciation, distinctive
through landscapes with neither footpaths
landforms, water level fluctuations, and
nor seascapes. In 1902 he engaged in field
the ways in which the trees and plants re-
research and exploration with Harvard
sponded to human intrusion by overuse
colleagues in the southwestern states and
or logging. New trail routes were mapped
two years later spent several months bush-
and routing consultations with others took
whacking the eastern Sierras and climb-
©2015 Aimee Beal Church
place, then rigidly supervised work crews
ing pathless Mt. Whitney. Whether or not
constructed the trail.
there was an existing path to follow, Dorr's
Canon, a leading provider
The pull of unfamiliar places both on
course was clear: Mount Desert Island
of consumer, business-to-
and off island still vied for Dorr's attention.
held untapped resources that could-and
business and industrial
In October of 1895, he took a two-week
should-be turned to public purpose.
digital imaging solutions, is
canoeing and camping trip through the
committed to giving back to
northern Maine wilderness, from Moose-
RONALD H. EPP, Ph.D. has worked in
the communities in which we
head Lake north through Chesuncoook
university teaching, scholarly publishing,
live and work. Whether it's
Lake and ending on the second longest
and academic library administration, and
supporting youth initiatives or
river on North America's Atlantic coastline,
is the retired director of Shapiro Library at
sustaining the environment,
the Saint John. The adventure followed a
Southern New Hampshire University. His
Canon is dedicated to creating
route familiar to students of American lit-
longtime research into Acadia's early history
programs and products
erature-through the wilderness described
and personages has led to published articles
that aim to make a positive
by Thoreau in 1846 and 1853.
in the magazines and newsletters of many
difference for our planet.
Of the woods seen from his canoe Dorr
Acadia-area organizations. Ron and his wife
wrote, even if they be fine in themselves
Elizabeth, who passed away in 2013, first
Learn more at
are monotonous when one sees them
joined Friends of Acadia in 1995.
www.usa.canon.com/
stretching on unbroken by civilization,
environment
unrelieved by open ground or any sign of
human homeliness [for] if the woods be
Canon
open, one should walk in them, under and
among the individual trees to realize their
2015 Canon U.S.A., Inc.
beauty and grasp the feel of their charm."
All rights reserved. Canon U.S.A., Inc.
One core landscape value articulated here
Summer 2015
Friends of Acadia Journal
14
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Fall 2015 FOA Journal: Epp Submission
From : Ronald Epp
Sun, May 31, 2015 05:47 PM
Subject Fall 2015 FOA Journal: Epp Submission
1 attachment
To : Aimee Church
Hi Aimee,
Attached is my draft of the "footpaths" article for the Fall 2015 issue of the Journal that we discussed when I last visited.
While many paragraphs are clearly lifted almost exactly from the final copy of the manuscript, I have paid deeper
homage to Thoreau here and modified the vocabulary and emphasis here and there. It is overly long: 1,850 words. The two paragraphs
concerning the VIA could be abbreviated or excised. See what you can do to cut it to an acceptable 1,700 words. In
describing the article for FOA readers I think it best to call it an adaptation.
I'll see what images I can find to accompany it.
Regarding the article title: I was trying to be ironic. As you likely know, Aristotle was the father of the
Peripatetic School of Philosophy. In its original application, it referred to his manner of teaching by constantly being
on the move, walking about as he engaged his students in conversation and delivered his lectures. Later the term
shifted meaning to walking about, even if education was not the objective. I'm adapting it here to refer to Mount Desert Island
educating Mr. Dorr when he traveled the island on foot--or his being educated through his sauntering.
One of my failings, trying to be too clever at times. See what you can devise.
I received chapter 13 and agree with you about Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Monts. I'll prepare an endnote explaining this.
Best,
Ronald
Ronald H. Epp, Ph.D.
532 Sassafras Dr.
Lebanon, PA 17042
717-272-0801
eppster2@comcast.net
FOA Journal615.docx
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Re: Ron Epp
From : Maureen Fournier
Sun, Jun 07, 2015 07:02 AM
Subject : Re: Ron Epp
To : Ronald Epp
Good morning, Ron. I share your frustration with communication, especially with the Park (and I work for them and live on the
island)! but am a little surprised with Tim not responding as he usually is very responsive. I have the day off tomorrow and plan on
going over to MDI Hist Soc on another matter - I can mention the Eliot box to him. Did I tell you that I was asked to join their Board?
Also, I recommended the book, "France and New England" to him. While reading that title's volume 3, I came across mention of the
granite slab with the words "Eaux Douces de l'Acadie" engraved on it - this I have known to be lying in the woods close to Sieur de
Monts, as if discarded to be lost forever. I have never known its origin but the book states it was the threshold for the "office" at
SDM
I suggested to Marie and Becky it would be great for the Centennial to resurrect it from the woods and restore it to its original
home.
You can give me a call any evening this week. Home from work after 5 - home phone is 207-244-9987. I hope the problems aren't
anything unsurmountable. Off to Park training for the day - not the way I would prefer to spend a beautiful day in Acadia, but tis the
season.
Til we talk,
Maureen
On Sat, Jun 6, 2015 at 9:25 AM, Ronald Epp wrote:
Dear Maureen,
I hope that you have been well since we met three weeks ago.
I copied you on an email I sent to Tim about your role in accessing the Eliot family
papers but have not heard back from him.
For many years I've been frustrated with poor communication between park HQ
and researchers "from away." Specifically, about new publications such as the
OCLP cultural landscape reports as well as those that they contract out to
independent researchers.
Marie has been most helpful and after no little
effort I came across a couple of interesting NPS publications available online.
I wondered whether you were familiar with them: the NPS newsletter called
Courier which ceased publication after a lengthy run in the last quarter of the
20th century; and Ranger: the Journal of the Association of NP Rangers which has
fascinating thematic issues.
On an entirely different matter, is there a time in the week ahead when I can
speak with you? There are some worrisome issues relative to the Chapman Archive and
the Mellon Foundation grant where I believe your input would be helpful.
Enjoy the weekend!
Ronald
Ronald H. Epp, Ph.D.
532 Sassafras Dr.
Lebanon, PA 17042
717-272-0801
eppster2@comcast.net
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Re: Off they go!
From : Bill Horner
Sun, May 31, 2015 12:54 PM
Subject : Re: Off they go!
To : Ronald Epp
Hi Ron,
Thanks for your complimentary remarks which coming from you I value greatly. You may certainly adapt the remarks noted.
And
I
look
forward to receiving your documents. The Door One Road illustration was printed in the Bar Harbor Record of the time.
Stay tuned.
Best, Bill
On Sun, May 31, 2015 at 8:40 AM, Ronald Epp wrote:
Hi Bill,
This morning I skimmed your "Auto Wars" article to determine whether you had referenced
the two relevant documents that I uncovered last week in the Chapman Archive. Since this was
not the case, I'm posting them to you tomorrow.
But I wanted to renew my praise for the quality of the article! You structured the
diverse currents of reason and emotion in a such a interesting way, compelling the reader
to turn yet another page--even though the outcome was a foregone conclusion. And thank you
for including the Dorr One motor road map. I was not aware of its existence.
Last night I finished adapting a chapter of the Dorr manuscript for inclusion in the fall
issue of the FOA Journal. It is a celebration of the Island footpaths during the two
decades before the close of the 19th-century. My essay reflects the wordsyou wrote:
that Dorr "breathed the essence of this place, as we can, too--native and visitor alike--
if we but climb high enough or penetrate more deeply into the forest, away from the sound
of the engine." Mind if I adapt your words for my article?
Enjoy the day!
Ron
From: "Bill Horner"
To: "Pauline Angione"
Cc: "Clem Guthro" , "Doug Chapman" ,
"Rhodes Erin" , ruth@fentonlawfirm.com, "Fisher Adam (MSL)"
Adam.C.Fisher@maine.gov>, "Epp Ron" , "Eveland Ruth A."
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2015 9:50:39 PM
Subject: Re: Off they go!
An historic occasion indeed. I have more news that I'll get out in the next day or 2. Thank you, everyone.
On May 30, 2015 7:54 PM, "Pauline Angione" wrote:
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A Peripatetic Education Mr Dorr's Island Wanderings FOA Journal 20 #2 Summer 2015
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