BAR HIT Both of these photos were taken at Mount Desert Ferry-at left during the 1880s and the above a few years later. The last run of the Bar Harbor Express was in 1960. THERE'S SOMETHING ABOUT A TRAIN, but in the years that followed the -especially in these days when we see growth of the area had kept pace with few of them. There was certainly a the phenomenal industrial and cul- special something about this one in tural expansion of the reunited coun- particular. Even its name was glam- try. It was inevitable that there should orous. When you spoke of riding the come into being one best way to reach Bar Harbor Express, you had the dis- this fabulous area, unless you didn't tinct feeling that you belonged to a mind risking a rough passage at sea very select coterie, to be found only in in one of the coastal steamboats that an equally select location. And you served the island. There was train ser- were right on both counts. vice from Bangor into the coastal re- Mount Desert Island and the ad- gion to the south and east; but this joining coastal area, and its desirability was year-round service, not tailored to for recreation and summer vacations, the interests and needs of a particular had begun to attract attention even area or a special clientele. before the Civil War. The war, of That was how and why the Bar course, had slowed down this trend; Harbor Express was born. The first 138 AUGUST 1967 YANKEE EXPRESS by ROGER B. BUETTELL THAT NEW EITGLAND Express made its first run on June 29, the performance of the Bar Harbor 1885, between Boston and Bangor. The Express was closely watched by the Boston and Maine brought it to Port- Maine Central's Board of Directors, land, and turned it over there to the who made the following year-end re- Maine Central for the remainder of port in 1886 to their stockholders: its journey to Bangor. To reach Bar "Our travel, particularly to and from Harbor, its passengers boarded the Bar Harbor, shows a large increase Mount Desert branch at Bangor, and over previous years, and to properly after a 42-mile ride to the head of care for this travel a Limited Express Frenchman Bay, they transferred again Train should be put on another sea- to a Maine Central steam ferry boat son, running from Boston and Bar for the last eight miles across the bay Harbor." to Bar Harbor. The "limited" feature which the Di- The Bar Harbor Express was a sum- rectors SO greatly desired meant that mer train only. It ran from about the the number of stops would have to be middle of June to the end of Septem- reduced, and the train's running speed ber. Northbound trains ran on also increased. Accordingly, on June Monday, Wednesday, and Friday; 27, 1887, the Maine Central gave the southbound trains on Tuesday, Thurs- Bar Harbor Express a companion, day, and Sunday. No trains were which was named the Bar Harbor scheduled for Saturday; if you were Limited. Stops were reduced by using not already on the Island, you'd better track water pans at three points, SO wait a week, and arrange a full week that the train's steam engines could end; if you were there, you certainly take water "on the run". In addition, wouldn't want to start for home on new, fast engines were bought for this Saturday. During its first two summers, run, and lighter Pullman cars were A distinguished gathering at the Bar Har- bor home of Secretary of State James G. Blaine includes, from left to right: James G. Blaine, Jr., Mrs. Henry Cabot Lodge, used. With these improvements, the President Benjamin Harrison, Mrs. James Bar Harbor Limited was the fastest G. Blaine, Secretary James G. Blaine, Miss Margaret Blaine (later Mrs. Walter Dam- express train in the country. But it rosch). Top row: Henry Cabot Lodge, Wal- had been primarily an experimental ker Blaine, Mr. Halford (unidentified). train; and since the same improve- At left is the Bar Harbor Express leaving ments were equally available to the Mount Desert Ferry about the year 1925. Express, and since two trains of such speed could not then be justified, the Limited was discontinued after the 1889 season, and the improved Bar by moving its eastern terminus from Harbor Express was again without a Bangor to Mount Desert Ferry, SO that challenge to her superiority. its passengers were not required to Then followed, over the ensuing change trains at Bangor but left the years, a unique and highly successful train at the ferry wharf. This was the venture in promotion, by the two wharf which, on August 6, 1899, was partners in it, each of whom promoted the scene of the tragedy in which the the other as much as it promoted itself, gangway to the steamer collapsed un- thereby assuring the success of both. der the rush of passengers from The Mount Desert people promoted another train, not the Express, and the Express as the best way of reach- 20 were drowned in the water below. ing their fabulous island; and the In 1901 it became possible to step Maine Central people promoted aboard a Bar Harbor Express Pullman Mount Desert as the beautiful destina- in New York City, and leave it the tion of their increasingly popular train. next morning at the ferry wharf, As a result, the convenience afforded since, in that year, New York cars by the Express was extended in 1892 were at- (continued on next page) 141 1500 Printed and tached to the Express at Portland. In 1905 Personalized the western terminus of the Express was especially for you! moved to New York City, and cars from NAME & Specially printed in Boston were attached at Portland. This made rolls with your name, address, city, the Express a truly metropolitan train. One state correctly per- sonalized in black ink year later the final touch was added: in July ADDRESS on fine quality white of 1906 the Maine Central put its first diner gummed paper. Easier to handle Sim- into service on the Bar Harbor Express be- pler to store the LABELS tween Portland and Mt. Desert Ferry. Going modern, inex- pensive way to east, breakfast and luncheon were served, identify any- Individual label POSTPAID thing. Please and going west, luncheon and dinner. From size 5/8 x 13/4" print. 1906 through the 1916 season, you could get MONEY BACK Sorry, no GUARANTEE C.O.D.'s. dinner in a diner for a dollar on the Ex- press. Breakfast was also a dollar, and this HAMILTON-WARD, Dept. 1B WESTFIELD, MASS. 01085 price was for a la carte meals. In 1917 the You are invited to visit one of New dinner charge had to be raised to $1.25, and England's largest and most interest- in 1921 to $1.50; and in 1922, for the first ing Country Shops Fine Wallpapers and Fabric. Quaint time, the $1.00 breakfast and the $1.50 dinner Lamps and Shades, Silver, Pewter, Copper, Wooden Wares, Pictures, Collector's Glass. Braided Rugs, was table d'hote. Passengers for Mt. Desert Crewel Embroidery, Staffordshire, Ironstone, Chelsea, Haviland and on the Bar Harbor Express must have been Royal Doulton convinced that the Maine Central intended Frances C Upton Routes 2A and 110 Littleton, Mass. 01460 its dining car should also contribute in every Open 2 to 6 Including Sunday-Friday Evenings From Rt 495-take Littleton Ayer Exit way to their enjoyment of their holiday. In 1917 the Hell Gate Bridge across the TOASTER COVERS (2-slice size) East River in New York City was opened, Mammy-Red, Yel- offering new and fast extensions of service low, Pink, Blue or Green (chks.) to the south. This made it possible to reach Dutch Girl-Blue, Pink, Yellow or Mt. Desert Ferry from as far away as Wash- Green (solids) $2.75 each postpaid ington in one long over-night run, from early THE HOVESTADTS afternoon of one day to mid-morning of the RFD #1, Box 167 Greene, Maine 04236 next. To meet the immediate demand for this service, Pullman cars were run directly RECORDERS to the ferry from Washington, Baltimore, and Philadelphia, SO that the western (and -SY W. KOCH southern) terminus of the Express had in SEND reality been moved to the nation's capital. FOR FOLDER If sleeping cars and parlor cars and diners HAVERHILL, NEW HAMPSHIRE had guest books, many interesting signatures might have been preserved, and many in- triguing bits of history could have been re- BE A YANKEE ADVERTISER corded during the years when the Bar Harbor Express was at the peak of its economic and Send for Yankee's beautiful 8 page ad- vertising folder for FALL '67 just off the social life, carrying the owners of the sum- press! Advertising Dept., Yankee, Inc., Dublin, N.H. 03444 FloraCART- Garden on Wheels. NEW SWEDISH INVENTION Popular moveable garden. Large leak- Save time and money, trim your own proof Fiberglass trays, ,19"x49"x1-1/2". hair and others with the new imported "Hair-Clip". Combs and trims in one Lifetime construction, aluminum easy motion. Uses regular double edge tubing. Ballbearing wheels. Guaran- razor blades. Completely safe. Free case. teed. Two models: 3 trays, $57.00; Send $1.95 today. Postpaid. No C.O.D.'s. Money back guarantee. Free catalog. 2 trays, $44.50, (Light fixtures ad- ditional.) Order today. Write for cat- FRANK LAWRENCE alog. Tube Craft, 1311Y West 80th 1581A West Main Road Middletown, R.I. 02840 Street, Cleveland, Ohio 44102. 142 AUGUST 1967 YANKEE mer colony "cottages" on the Island. But even in the absence of such guest books, we can CREWEL FLORAL HANDBAG still guess with reasonable accuracy at the names of some of its nationally-known pas- sengers. A listing would read like the pages of Who's Who, or like New York's 400. Among them we find Mr. and Mrs. J. Pier- pont Morgan; President Charles W. Eliot of Harvard; John S. Kennedy, E. T. Stotes- bury, and Schuyler Schieffelin of New York City; Potter Palmer of the famous Chicago family; Edsel Ford of Detroit; A. Atwater Kent, the radio manufacturer; T. DeWitt Cuyler of Philadelphia; Mr. and Mrs. John D. Rockefeller, Jr.; Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Pulitzer; Mary Roberts Rinehart; Mr. and Mrs. Damrosch, of the New York Symphony Here is everything you need to make this and Metropolitan Opera; Mr. and Mrs. charming 6" X 9" crewel handbag. Easy to Leopold Stokowski, of the Philadelphia Or- make kit includes 18th century floral design on natural linen; yarn in soft shades of rose, chestra; Mr. and Mrs. Robert A. Taft of blue, gold and green; gold metal frame with chain handle; full instructions. Also available Cincinnati; James G. Blaine, Secretary of in black linen. Only $6.95 plus .45c postage. State under President Benjamin Harrison; Send 10 for Needlecraft Catalog and many others equally well known. Proba- bly not all of these people used the Bar Harbor Express exclusively to reach Mount the stitchery Desert Island, but it must have been the Dept. Y408C, Wellesley, Mass. 02181 major means of reaching the Island for their families and their friends; and the Express usually carried the private cars of those who had them. It would be no exaggeration to say that the Express made a significant con- tribution to the fame of Mount Desert and 7 Bar Harbor, since in the year 1916 a book was published in New England which was entitled Who's Who in Bar Harbor and New- port. To have reached Newport's level SO soon after 1900, though hundreds of miles more distant from the top financial and social cen- Before After ters, was no mean achievement. There must have been a highly acceptable means of Clark House, Strawbery Banke, Inc., Portsmouth, N.H. bridging those hundreds of miles. That means was the Bar Harbor Express. Philip W. Baker While the fame of the Express was con- Antrim, New Hampshire 03440 Tel: Antrim 588-6351 Restoration and modern adaptation of The New England Colonial home. Experts in replacement of sills and frame repair. Beautifully photographed in color, Specializing in the design and con- 13 handsome Rowantrees glazes on struction of fireplace mantels, corner 13 Rowantrees coffee mugs-picture cupboards, paneled walls, stairways, sent you on request. entrances and kitchens in eastern white ROWANTREES POTTERY pine. Blue Hill, Maine 04614 SERVICES RENDERED ANYWHEREINN.E YANKEE AUGUST 1967 143 SWEATER tinuing to spread year after year, a new rival CHEST had raised its head, hesitantly at first but with increasing strength and with rapid FINELY FINISHED public approval. This rival was the motor OR IN KIT vehicle. In the form of the passenger auto- mobile, it threatened every railroad's passen- ger business. It ran on highways built and improved with public funds. It was subject to regulatory laws, but only in the interest of safety; and it was not concerned with matters of revenue or labor costs, as the rail- roads were. The railroads, in fact, had none of the freedom of the automobile in trans- CEDAR LINED porting passengers. They were now faced at The first of its kind! This lovely, slim chest stores 16 to 20 sweaters in full view for quick selection. Keeps all sizes, every turn with one or more of three "facts even bulky knits, in perfect shape. Fragrant cedar shelves of life:" government regulation of their rev- slide out for easy access-give year 'round protection to precious woolens. Stores blouses, shirts, slacks, too. Remove enues; diminishing control of their labor some shelves for blankets, etc. Hand crafted in rich pine with cedar interior. In satin patina honey tone pine or costs; and the motor vehicle. In providing maple finish. 32"H. 26"W. 14"D. $49.95 EASY KIT: Ready for quick assembly and finish. Simple passenger service, they might have withstood instructions. $33.95 any two of these at the same time, possibly Both Exp. Chgs. Col. all three for a limited time in a limited area. BEAUTIFUL NEW FREE CATALOG-700 PCS. Finished and Kit Furniture in Friendly Pine But they couldn't withstand all of these fac- Money-Back Guarantee YIELD HOUSE Include Zip No. Dept. Y8-7, North Conway, N.H. 03860 tors all of the time in all of their operations. During the summer months in particular, BROOKS CARDS when the Bar Harbor Express operated, the ORIGINAL SILK-SCREENED CHRISTMAS competition of the motor vehicle reached its CARDS CREATED AND SCREENED BY THEARTIST'S OWN HAND ALL CARDS greatest intensity. The pressure finally be- 15 CENTS YOUR NAME HAND-SCREENED TO MATCH MESSAGES VISITOUR STUDIO came too great as the number of automobiles ON RTE. 6A, EAST BREWSTER, CAPE COD mushroomed and more and more tourists and OR SEND 20$ FOR A SET OF SAMPLES TO BROOKS CARDS, RFD 1, ORLEANS,MASS.02653 vacationers came to Maine in their own cars. In 1931 the eastern terminus of the Express was moved back to Ellsworth, and the use VISIT THE Christmas Lantern of Mount Desert Ferry and its steamers was abandoned. From Ellsworth its passengers ROUTE 31, SPENCER, MASS. reached Bar Harbor by Maine Central (Near St. Josephs Abbey) busses. As time went on, the handwriting on An Unusual Display of Christmas Decorations, Make-It Items, Nativi- the wall became all too plain. At the end of ties, Cards, Candles, Etc. the 1960 season, the last Bar Harbor Express Closed Mondays No Brochures pulled out of Ellsworth for New York. COLLEGE Before this last trip, however, this writer COLLAGE KIT was privileged to enjoy a well-remembered New hobby only $1.50 for kit contains instructions. col- ride on the Express. I boarded it one hot orful bits and pieces for cre- ating a collage. Everyone will enjoy this creative experience. July afternoon in Wilmington, Delaware. The Collage is the art of pasting or gluing paper, cloth, etc. to comfort of the air-cooled cars kept reminding form a picture or design. Yarn and Design Dept. 675 Post Office Box 1114 Racine, Wisconsin 53405 $8.95 DRAINS cellars, cisterns, wash tubs; TROUBLED WITH PIGEONS? IRRIGATES CIRCULATES - SPRAYS A SCOOT OWL hung in eaves or on roosting or nest- Type P Pump has 1.001 uses, Stainless shaft. Won't rust or clog! Use 1/6 HP ing areas will terrify objectionable birds. Also used motor or larger 3/4 HP for up to 2,400 GPH: 450 GPH 80' high: or on boats to keep sea gulls away. Guaranteed weather- 1.800 GPH from 25' well. 1" inlet: proof, extremely life like, weighs only 4 ozs. 3/4" outlet. Coupling free. $8.95. Heavy-Duty Ball. -Bearing Pump. Up to $3.95 Postpaid 5,200 GPH. 11/4" inlet; 1" outlet $12.95 Postpaid if cash with order. Also other YANKEE PRODUCTSCO. (formerly C. H. Symmes Co.) sizes, types. Money Back Guarantee. Box 527 Wakefield, Mass. 01880 LABAWCO PUMPS, 17 Belle Mead, N.J. 144 AUGUST 1967 YANKEE Typical of the residences of Bar Harbor Express passengers was "Kenarden," the summer "cottage" of John S. Kennedy, a New York banker and philan- thropist. It was dismantled after his death in 1909. me of the comfort of my destination. I approached Mr. Whitehouse near the end of awoke the next morning, after a night's sleep the journey, and said to him: "Conductor, under a blanket, to find that I was on a does this train stop at Mount Desert Ferry?" 15-car train. I hurried to the diner, but it "Lady," said Charley Whitehouse, "I cer- was full SO I sat down in the parlor car. In tainly hope it does, because if it doesn't, we my business travels, I had been in many will all get one hell of a ducking!" parlor cars, and the faces I had seen there, Then there was the experience of the late behind newspapers and magazines, were William G. Marston, as related by his son sometimes haggard, often troubled, always Donald Marston of Lewiston, Maine, which sober. But the people who occupied these is not only amusing, but could be symbolic chairs were happy people, smiling or laugh- as well. One day in 1915, Mr. Marston, who ing, full of animation. And well they might was conductor on the Express, stepped from be, for they were riding into a "Promised his train on its arrival at Mount Desert Land." Ferry, and saw on the pier a small swarm of There will be for many people many other Maxwell automobiles, all roadsters, that had memories of the Bar Harbor Express for a just been unloaded from box cars. They long time to come, and some of these memo- were destined for Sullivan and Sorrento, ries are amusing. There was the day, for where buyers awaited them (they were at example, recalled by Robert W. Fenlason, a that time not permitted on Mount Desert former engineer on the Express now retired Island). The train crew started to look them and living in Charleston, Maine. On that day over, and Mr. Marston playfully seized the one of the passengers was a lady who was crank handle of one of them, and gave it a enjoying her first ride to Bar Harbor, and turn. The motor came to life, and the car who had apparently been told by her friends instantly began to move, as it had been left that she would get off the train at Mount in gear. The train crew scattered in all di- Desert Ferry. The conductor that day was rections, and the car bounced and careened Charles Whitehouse, who Mr. Fenlason de- off the pier and into Frenchman Bay. It was scribes as "quite a character." The lady later recovered at some expense to the train AAA Quiet, hospitable woodland resort cooled by breezes from an unspoiled lake in N.H.'s northernmost township. Rooms in a country estate-type lodge or lakeside log cabins. Tasty country The Glen cooking. Fishing, boating, swimming, relaxing. FIRST CONNECTICUT LAKE PITTSBURG N.H. TEL: (603) 538-6500 Allen & Betty Falton YANKEE AUGUST 1967 145 crew; but in retrospect, it would almost seem New England Guide that Mr. Marston and his crew had recog- nized their deadly rivals, and had promptly The Only Complete Guide to All New England consigned one of them to a place where they 156 page magazine, factual data on all wished all of them were-the bottom of activities, revised for '67. Articles, Frenchman Bay. color photos, 470 lodgings, restaurants. Since that day in 1960 when the Bar Har- Invaluable for planning, and on vaca- tion. Free road map for N.E. 60c plus bor Express made her last run, the rival 5c stamp; 3 copies $1.60 plus 3 stamps. whose onrush, like a monstrous wave, swept AND OUR NEW BOOK everything before it, has been found to be NEW ENGLAND much less than a perfect blessing. The motor SAMPLER car has come to a day of reckoning, and its 28 original stories - a Jolly Portrait makers and its owners are learning many of our Historic and Diverting Region. things about its contribution to the growing History, Humor, Nature, People, Pic- evil of air pollution. We may be closer than tures. $1 plus 5c stamp. Guide and we think to a determination of what national Sampler $1.50 plus 5c stamp. Send order to, BOX 108- CONCORD, N.H. restrictions in its use we must adopt to keep this evil within proper bounds. Fortunately, we in Maine are still free from its effects; but that does not mean that we shall never have to deal with it. Writing in the Maine Central Messenger for February, 1967, Presi- dent E. Spencer Miller of the Maine Central puts it this way: "In common with many others who look into the future, I see a time when, in large 'THAR SHE BLOWS" Wouldn't our handmade whale look great sections of this country, the highways are in your den or over your fireplace? It's a copy of an old New England weathervane going to become glutted and the great at- made from weathered lumber 28" long. Carved traction of moving freight over them in teeth and rusty hanging hook add to the charm of this wonderful whale. $5.95 ppd. Facts about single vehicles, or moving passengers over whales and catalogue included. them with one or two people being carried "THE SMUGGLER" Ocean City New Jersey 08226 in a vehicle powered by an internal combus- tion engine, is going to become non-existent STAIR CLIMBER and may even become limited by imposition by WECOLATOR of law. "One of our freight trains carrying 80 Enjoy your multi-story home without climbing a single step. Ride upstairs on a com- fortable, dependable, mainte- nance free Wecolator Stair Climber. Installs quickly and neatly on straight or curved stairways without remodel- BOOKS BOOKS ing; leaving ample room for normal use. Operates on Old Rare Out-of-Print standard 110 volt household Come to Browse. We search for the titles service. you want if not in our large stock. WRITE OR TELEPHONE FOR FREE BROCHURE History Catalog 50c McLAUTHLIN ELEVATOR COMPANY ROADSIDE BOOK SHOP, INC. 120 Fulton Street-Boston, Massachusetts 02109 G. M. Sessler, proprietor TELEPHONE 227-3760-AREA CODE 617 Grafton, Vermont 05146-Tel. Saxtons River 2637 PRIVATE DEMONSTRATION BY APPOINTMENT 25,000 GOOD USED BOOKS ARE NOT ENOUGH! We are constantly buying more. May we bid on your library or accumulation? We traipse all over the Northeast hunting for books to sell. Our shop is open 7 days per week. Come visit us and browse through our ever changing stock, or send $1 for a year of our large monthly lists. NEW ENGLANDIANA, 48 Ashland St. near the Post Office North Adams, Mass 01247 Phone 413-664-9417 146 AUGUST 1967 YANKEE loads would supplant 150 trucks on the high- FINISHED OR IN KIT way and all of the pollution, as well as con- gestion, they involve. One train operating into a metropolitan area could easily ac- commodate 800 to 1,000 people and therefore supplant somewhere between 500 and 1,000 automobiles, eliminating all of the conges- tion and all of the air pollution which they cause. "We of the Maine Central believe that those things are going to happen and our state of mind is simply this: we are preparing them in the planning stage and thinking Door about them. Cabinet For Portables Now-hide that Cyclops! House it in a handsome cabinet- "We went out of the passenger business out of sight when not in use. Our charming, exclusive new design holds 19" color or 19"-21" black & white portables pursuant to public desire as evidenced by (191/2"H. 251/2"W. inside). Top back lifts for rabbit ears- doors fold flat against sides for televiewing-huge con- the fact that each of our trains by 1960 was cealed ball-bearing casters roll anywhere-swivel to any angle! Honey tone knotty pine or maple finish. 28"H. 28 1/2 "W. handling less than half a bus load. We are 19"D. $54.95 COMPLETE KIT: Ready for easy assembly and finish. Doors all made. Simple instructions. $34.95 willing and anxious to get back into that Exp. Chgs. Col. BEAUTIFUL NEW FREE CATALOG - 700 PIECES business when the pendulum swings to such Finished and Kit Furniture in Friendly Pine an extent that it will be the desire of the Include Zip No. YIELD HOUSE people once again to have the comforts and Money-Back Guarantee Dept. Y8-7 North Conway, N. H. 03860 reliability of passenger train service, in addi- tion to the great public need to eliminate the uneconomic expense of super highways, the APOTHECARY CHEST congestion on existing highways, and the pol- TOASTER COVER lution of the air which a multiplication of A FETCHING FAKE is this toaster cover vehicles on them necessarily produces." designed to look like an Early American Who knows?-there may some day be an- apothecary chest. Fits over standard 2-slice other Bar Harbor Express of 15 Pullmans toaster, lifts off with a brass tote ring. 13" and a diner. You might not be able to get a wide, 81/2" high, 9" deep, trimmed with dinner in the diner for a dollar, but you white knobs. In pine- $9.95 POSTPAID would be certain to get all you wanted of laughter, animation, and good spirits-all Also available unfinished, fully assembled. Ready for your finish.-$6.95 POSTPAID that goes with a care-free summer in a blessed ARISTA FARMS, INC., land, and all for free. Box 698-Y6, Lake Ronkonkoma, New York 11779 Send 10c for catalog of Early American gifts. GO WESTERN with BOLO TIE $1.50 MUSTANGS and Black on ROAD RUNNERS Chrome- THE Leatherette Cord YOKE Add .25 Post. on Each Order BELT BUCKLE HINGED BAR CHOP Black on Chrome Either Motif For 1" Belt $1.50 Ruth E. DeTurk Available on For 11/2" Belt $2.00 Reuel A. DeTurk Buckle or Tie Ladies' ROAD RUNNER PIN- 1606 Hopmeadow St. 21/2" 1g. Nickel or Copper Finish $1.00 CLOTHING FOR ALL SQUARE DANCERS Simsbury, Conn. 06070 YANKEE AUGUST 1967 147