A Native's Memories of Old Bar Harbor By Nan Cole WE who were born and grew up in that Maine - of which my brother, Chester A. Wescott, was paradise that once was called Eden led a manager for sixteen years - but we felt no resent- double life. Each summer our town became the play- ment or sense of exclusion. After all, our visitors rep- ground for America's fabulously rich and famous resented the upper echelons of the entire nation families, whose arrival was heralded by an advance and we townspeople, who rendered key services, rev- guard of carloads of pure-blooded horses. With their eled in being part of the local grapevine, privy to coming, most natives buckled down to work around intrigues and escapades of which outsiders had no the clock through July and August, in order to relax linkling. On the other hand some citizens - like my with their profits during the remaining ten months father, George Wescott, a contractor who specialized of the year. in bringing to life Italian gardens created on paper Most people never seemed to understand the native by noted designers - were on terms of first-name willingness - independent Mainers though we were friendship with several impressive employers (DOWN - to cater to visitors who claimed our town as their EAST, July 1969). Also, the public events staged by own in the summertime by virtue of their purchas- our opulent visitors were ours to enjoy and few small ing power. True, we were barred from membership town citizens in the world were privileged to view in The Pot and Kettle Club and the Bar Harbor Club such magnificence of props and performances. 60 Down East magazine Sept 1970 One such Arabian Nights dream was a lavish en- was recognized as one of the nation's most fash- tertainment given in 1899 for over 100 members of ionable events. the Bar Harbor Canoe Club at Chatwold, Joseph We never missed a day of the Horse Show through- Pulitzer's estate on the Ocean Drive, where natives out its history. Sometimes we sat in the grandstand lined up to witness the unforgettable highlight of to watch the celebrities at close range but, in the the party - a parade of canoes in the sheltered cove earlier years, we stood all day by the rail, munching on the ocean side of Chatwold. The hosts for the OC- on peanuts and popcorn. The boxes - reserved for casion were Mr. Pulitzer's daughter and her hus- summer people and their guests - each contained band, Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence Green. eight hard, folding chairs and cost $500 for the three Most of the canoes, handmade from birch bark, days. The Show always opened with a thrilling blare had been purchased at the Indian Village off lower from trumpets and bugles, and everyone cheered as Main Street, now an athletic field - where Penob- Colonel Edward Morrell's luxurious tallyho led the scots from Indian Island came many years to camp, parade, followed by Philip Livingstone and eight or bringing for sale the products of their winter's ten other owners of equally elegant tallyhos. Each handiwork. The Indians also supplied members of the was manned by coachmen and footmen in bright Bar Harbor Canoe Club with hand-carved, individual red, gold-trimmed livery, and the passengers were paddles with the owner's initials etched into the beautifully-gowned great ladies, in plumed hats and wood, and many of the braves were employed to costly jewelry, sitting in stately fashion under fringed instruct the children of the rich in the art of paddling parasols, and squired by impeccably-attired gentle- the fragile craft over Frenchman's Bay. men. Each canoe in the spectacular parade was dazz- Following the tallyhos came the coaches and lingly decorated with lighted Japanese lanterns. The victorias. The magnificent horses, wonderfully great line of illuminated craft, carrying splendidly groomed and bedecked, high-stepped around the ring attired passengers, moved rhythmically around the with heads held proudly by means of check-reins. cove to the background music of dozens of strumming These scenes of overwhelming splendor ended in banjos, while a full moon shed its glory on the Bar Harbor with the last Horse Show in 1912, and breathtaking scene. soon the automobiles of both rusticators and natives A year or two later the Bar Harbor Horse Show replaced equestrian pageantry forever. The site of (DOWN EAST, August 1967) - a community project the Bar Harbor Horse Show was presented in 1918 arranged by both natives and rusticators - was by Mrs. Louise Drexel Morgan of Philadelphia to the held for the first of eleven fabulous seasons. It took town for its perpetual use, and it has been known place at Robinhood Park for three days during the since as Morrell Park in memory of her late husband, last week in August, and horse lovers from all over Colonel Edward Morrell. the country crowded into Bar Harbor on special Another regular entertainment of those lavish excursions by railroad and steamship to attend what years were the weekly summertime concerts from members of the Boston Symphony Orchestra gave weekly concerts every summer on the Green. On one occasion, we children were delighted when, in the middle of a performance, the blatant whistle at the firehouse adjoining the Green started blasting. It completely drowned out the music, and besides, no one in Bar Harbor ever purposely missed a fire, SO in a moment the Green was totally deserted. The musicians, however, were stranded in the bandstand. The players had entered the stand by means of a ladder which, once they were ensconced, was stored beneath the platform until the concert was over. For- tunately, the fire proved to be a false alarm and the audience soon returned to find the musicians lounging and smoking while awaiting rescue. The stand on the Village Green was graced on July 21, 1910 by the President of the United States, William Howard Taft. He was the first President - since 1890 - to visit us while in office, and his coming created a great furore in Bar Harbor that week. Mrs. Evelyn Walsh McLean, always a leader in any social project, decided to decorate the salon of the presidential yacht Mayflower in honor of the distinguished guest. At the time my brother was Indians brought their baskets for sale. working in the uptown store of Mt. Desert Nurseries and happened to be on duty when Mrs. McLean the bandstand on the Village Green in Bar Harbor. entered to inquire the price of American Beauty These concerts originated with a band of local roses. She was quoted a price of "$1 an inch" - $12 musicians, each pridefully aware both of his talent a dozen for 12-inch stemmed roses and $18 a dozen and his bandman's uniform. The dark blue suits, for the 18-inch ones. Without hestiation Mrs. Mc- trimmed with gold braid, were topped by blue- Lean ordered 100 dozens of the longer stemmed visored caps, and the brass buttons on the uniforms, roses, and Chet nearly fainted, because there were as well as each man's shoes and band instruments only four dozens in the shop! However, he got in all were polished to a high luster that gleamed in touch with the manager, who immediately phoned the lights from the bandstand, New York to fill the order. When the Mayflower On concert nights, our family went equipped with dropped anchor offshore Chet, with his fragrant a blanket to spread on the ground and each of us cargo, went out in the launch that transported the carried a camp stool. While grown-ups chatted with reception committee. He was about to climb the friends from neighboring towns, we children would gangplank, when a hand on his shoulder restrained run around and play until the music started. Then him, and a secret service man wanted to know what we joined our parents, and woe to any one of us he was doing there. Chet explained, pointing to the who made a noise! Members of the band arrived at ten 8-foot boxes in the launch. He was ordered to 7:45 and when, on the dot of 8, the conductor raised fetch them aboard, open the boxes and spread out the his baton, a hush fell and everyone stood for America. roses for viewing on the floor of the salon. He com- After a program of popular marches, the band con- plied and, after a thorough and satisfactory inspec- cert ended with Good Night, Ladies. tion, the decorating was allowed to begin. I don't remember just when our local musicians Next day, when President Taft was to speak from stepped aside in deference to talented visiting pro- what on such occasions was called the "grandstand," fessionals, but for many years a group of thirty (Continued on page 67) THE LAKES Songo Pond, Bethel, Maine, by George French 62 MEMORIES OF OLD BAR HARBOR reached the 18th hole, although his good humor saved the day. The 17th hole at the Kebo Valley (Continued from page 62) Golf Club still is called "Howard Taft's Nemesis." I was bothered by how the committee would get O NE of the most colorful summer residents over that portly President up and down the famous ladder a period of years was William Pierson Hamilton, without mishap. I was too short to see from the former partner in J. P. Morgan enterprises. Al- crowd, SO I pushed and elbowed my way to the front though a tremendously wealthy man, he alternated row, not noticing that I was completely surrounded from lavish spending sprees to cycles of penurious- by men. President Taft was already in the stand and ness. He purchased an enormous tract of land at beginning his speech. My eyes were glued upon the Salisbury Cove, where he built massive stables and heavy gold watch chain, displayed across President paddocks - all painted barn red - and became a Taft's expansive chest, which he had a mannerism breeder of champion horses. At that time Hamilton of fingering as he talked. Suddenly, I heard his Farms was the largest employer in town, Mr. Hamil- genial voice saying how much he appreciated the ton hired caretakers, gardeners, architects, laborers, welcome given him by "the citizens and the young jockeys, horse trainers, musicians, men to give him lady in the front row" - which caused me to grin daily massages, valets, maids, and housekeepers adoringly at him from then on! I never did learn galore. how he got up on the stand. As new buildings were erected at Hamilton Farms, During Mr. Taft's visit to Bar Harbor, he played gardens were designed and planted and macadam golf at the Kebo Valley Club, and did fairly well driveways were built. At one time, there were about until he reached the 17th hole. This difficult hole thirty men working on a road through the property. 1 1.1 HOMES DOWN EAST A Native's Memories of Old Bar Harbor (Continued from page 67) rung - the signal for every man in the crew to lay down his tools and take a siesta for an hour or two. This was the hour for Mr. Hamilton's daily nap, and he ordered everyone on the place to do the same to insure peace and quiet. When Mr. Hamilton awoke refreshed, the bell sounded for the men to A HORSEMAN'S PARADISE resume work. Modern, urban, horse-training establishment consisting of a very spacious 8-room, sensitively restored Cape with ell and Often Mr. Hamilton sent for his architect, or his isolated 5-room and bath apartment. In addition to the 3 masseur, when the only service he wanted was a spacious bedrooms and bath on 2nd floor, the main house consists of a 12' X 23' living room with fireplace, dining room little comradely talk over a highball or beer. Once, 16' X 20', den 12' X 15', kitchen 18' X 21' with fieldstone fire- on impulse, he drove to Boothbay Harbor, where a place, large paneled family room 17' sq. with 2 walk-in closets friend of mine, Captain Howe, carried on a charter and trophy alcove. Attached barn with 10 luxurious box stalls, large tiled tack room and office. 22 additional box stalls boat business, and always captained the boat him- are located in the main barn and separate 30' X 110' barn. Well self because of the treacherous waters in the area. ventilated hay storage for over 200 tons. Lovely entrance When Mr. Hamilton arrived that day with a friend through stone gate with 200' blacktop drive flanked with paddocks and rail-fenced 1/4-mile track. Rear of property is and his chauffeur, he told Captain Howe he wished wooded, with large evergreens, framing a modern 1/2-mile track. to hire the boat for the day and skipper it himself. $85,000. He was informed that another party already had BOND REALTY CO. chartered the boat for the day, whereupon Mr. Ham- REALTORS 12 Revere Street, Portland, Maine Tel. 207-772-0115 ilton asked how much they were paying and offered to double the price. When this was refused, Mr. Hamilton offered to buy the launch at a price SO fabulous that Captain Howe finally agreed to sell. However, he still wouldn't allow the new owner to take the boat out that day without an experienced navigator. In the end, Mr. Hamilton told Captain Howe to stay aboard, but after their return in the evening, he said he'd changed his mind about buy- ing the old boat! Instead, he handed Captain Howe $1000 for the day's trip. Ideal site for motel or development housing. 29 acres - At another time, the economy side of Mr. Ham- 570' road frontage - view of Blue Hill Bay and Cadillac Mt. ilton would take command, and he become penny- $29,500. pinching to an alarming degree. He would roam Robert W. Gray Agency Broker (Continued on page 95) Upper Main Street, Blue Hill Phone 207-374-2700 Fletcher Woods MAINE'S FIRST CONDOMINIUM COMMUNITY Designed to fit the needs of the mature adult who desires to combine gracious country living with freedom from the burdens of home ownership. Each unit consists of 2 bedrooms, liv- LOCATED IN HISTORICAL KENNEBUNK ing room with fireplace, dining room, R. E. MARIER, INC. equipped kitchen, 1 or 1 1/2 baths, at- REALTORS and DEVELOPERS tached garage and patio. One Fletcher Street, Kennebunk, Maine 04043 Tel. 207-985-3013 90 HOMES DOWN EAST MEMORIES OF OLD BAR HARBOR (Continued from page 90) around proclaiming that money was to be saved and not spent, and demanding that all expenses be reduced Perkins Cove, drastically. During this phase, he would sell some Ogunquit of his horses and fight over all bills - with or with- out cause. Frequently, he fired most of his employees Four-bedroom year-round summarily, but the local ones, accustomed to his home with large studio, 2 cycles, simply waited for the mood to change when, fireplaces, overlooking Perkins Cove, 100' from Marginal Way. almost invariably, they got their plush jobs back. Taxes only $439. Offered at $50,000 furnished. Fred Garnsey CCASIONALLY, scions of the rich were involved GARNSEY BROS. Real Estate Broker O RFD No 1. MOODY POINT WELLS. MAINE 04096 Insurance & Read Estate SAVINGS BANK BUILDING. SANFORD MAINE DESTY in unusual shenanigans. For instance, the heiress to a great American fortune once left an all-night party at the Bar Harbor Club at five o'clock in the morning. She thumbed a ride with a streetcleaner and, haughty in her evening gown and wrap, rode SWANS ISLAND his rounds on the truck. Another episode occurred at the Casino when the A few desirable 200' ocean front lots are being offered. These are choice deep-water sites in a son of a world-famous figure was seated, with a beautiful setting including a point and rockbound group of college friends, in a box near the stage at coast - away from it all. Maine provides a 12- an amateur prize-fight. Deciding that one of the car ferry service to the island of Mt. Desert, yet this is one of the few areas free from over- pugilists had hit a foul blow, the entire group crowding. A few back lots, with magnificent jumped from the box onto the stage and proceeded views and their own shore area, are also offered. to start a free-for-all, while the audience egged them Prices start at $2500. on with delighted roars. A Bar Harbor policeman WILLIAM BANKS, Swans Island, Maine Tel. 207-526-2288 intervened and was about to toss the great man's DEREP Central File 219, Machias, 04654 the most complete list of properties for sale in WASHINGTON COUNTY, MAINE DEREP CENTRAL FILE IS NOT A REAL ESTATE AGENCY IT IS A REAL ESTATE BUYERS SERVICE WHERE YOUR RARE it is that salt water frontage at this location is ever PERSONAL DESIRES ARE CLOSELY HAND MATCHED WITH THE HUNDREDS OF DESIRABLE PROPERTIES LISTED IN OUR available. Five minutes from Portland on the shore at Fal- FILES; THE MOST COMPLETE LIST OF PROPERTIES FOR SALE mouth Foreside. This superior home has 21/2 baths, 3 bedrooms, IN WASHINGTON AND HANCOCK COUNTIES, MAINE. etc. Completed in 1958 and designed to last for generations. Write for FREE INFORMATION In the $70's. The Andrews Agency Real Estate Brokers 648 Forest Avenue Portland, Maine 04101 207-773-2200 The MANOR Designed by William Katzenbach French Provincial, in the manner of the small chateaux and manors of Normandy and Brittany, the MANOR has a graceful balanced simplicity and the look of having been designed for future as well as present generations. Its many French windows welcome and embrace the surrounding grounds while its pleasant proportions - like good manners - help it to be at lease and at home in almost any setting: town or country, wooded hillside or open meadow, seashore or suburbia. Send $1.00 for Plans & Details of Our Products Henry S. Bickford and Associates 35 Elm Street Camden, Maine 04843 207-236-4371 A product of Boyne Fall Log Homes - Boyne Falls, Michigan 95 HOMES DOWN EAST Air view of The Malvern, Bar Harbor. 1812 Federal Mansion son out, literally by the seat of his pants, when some- Authentically restored and modernized for gracious living. one shouted out the youth's identity. Our red-faced Considered to be of historical and architectural importance. Interesting features include a 3-flight spiral staircase, splayed policeman loosened his grip and the incident was windows, interior shutters, brass box locks, grained doors and forgotten. 10 working fireplaces. First floor has a large central entrance Once my nine-year-old nephew, Freddie, was hall, living room, library, dining room with pantry, modern kitchen, back reception hall, canopied porch and 1/2 bath. drafted to aid a prank. At one of the regal parties, Second floor has 3 large bedrooms and 2 baths. Third floor contestants in a scavenger hunt were asked to find with 4 large bedrooms and 1 bath. Full basement with laundry a red-haired boy with a front tooth missing. An area and new heating system. Center of town location on 1 acre, with playhouse and green- astute young man located Freddie, who had red house, nicely landscaped and hair but also a perfect set of teeth. The dauntless fenced for privacy. $55,000. party-goer rushed Freddie to a dentist's home, and COLEHARRISON cajoled the professional man into cementing a child's agency REALTORS bridge with a missing front tooth below Freddie's 83 Main Street, Kennebunk, Maine 04043 Telephone: 207-985-3361 Often imitated never duplicated. the incomparable Ward cabin Be the envy of your friends when you entertain them in your Ward Cabin. These charming cedar log homes are a pleasure to live in, a delight to own. Their easy maintenance make them especially attractive in today's busy world. Write for the Ward folder or send $2 for the colorful brochure of plans. A typical Ward living room. WARD CABIN COMPANY WARD Box 72-DE Houlton, Maine 04730 CABIN CO. 96 HOMES DOWN EAST own teeth. My nephew said that his upper lip protruded and he was most uncomfortable, but his In "kidnapper" won first prize and gave Freddie $10 for playing his part. Harrison, After I was grown up and with a family of my Maine own, I often visited at the Malvern Hotel and cot- tages, of which my brother Chester was manager at the time. One day we were at lunch in the main dining room when a considerable commotion arose. Restorable Old Colon- ial with hand-hewn The cause of it was that comedian Ed Wynn, with beams, wide pine his two attractive daughters, was being ushered by floors and dado walls. the head waiter to a table close to ours. 10 rooms, bath, steam heat, shed and barn. Spectacular view of Long Ed Wynn was dressed in a loud-checked sports Lake and the White Mountains. 5 acres. $17,500. coat, baggy trousers, a bright red shirt and a blatant red-and-yellow tie. On his head was one of his zany hats. His costume hardly was in keeping with the staid, restricted conformity of the Malvern Hotel's Harrison clientele. Almost immediately one of the office clerks came to our table, very red-faced, and said, Fine village Colonial to my brother: "Mr. Wescott, I didn't know what has modern kitchen, to do. He just breezed by me with a giggle, signed living room with brick the register and said, 'We're having lunch here, as fireplace, 4 bedrooms, full bath and 2-room he headed for the dining room." Chet assured the professional suite with separate entrance. Forced clerk that he was delighted that Ed Wynn had hot-water heat. Excellent condition throughout. $45,000. chosen the Malvern for lunch, where his presence already was adding zest to the usual subdued The FORRESTS, Realtors atmosphere. (Continued) Harrison, Maine Tel. 207-583-2395 A CLASSIC FARM This 10-room farmhouse is located in Plymouth, 20 miles south of Bangor. The 150-year-old house is brick, covered with clapboards, and is in fine shape but needs redecorating. Full bath, 5 working fireplaces, dutch ovens, drilled well, no furnace yet. Full base- ment, barn in good condition. 40 acres with a brook. Near Plymouth Lake. Perfectly sited off road in area with other good homes. $29,500. SUMMER SPECIAL A great place for a big family on the shores of the cleanest lake in Maine. Fourteen rooms in a fine old (just painted) rambling home. Full bath, large modern kitchen, town water, 2 impressive wood stoves. On the shores of Big Indian Lake, St. Albans (Maine) a few minutes from Bangor off Rt. 95. Fine fishing, swimming and boating; plus swallows in the barn to keep the place bugless. Yours for $15,000.. THE SAWYER AGENCY, 5 Bank Street, Brunswick, Tel. 207-725-8716 97 HOMES DOWN EAST Every guest in the room was staring with un- abashed delight at the famous comedian and, for the time being, the impeccable service was at a stand- "Ye Old still. Noting that people were waiting for dessert Cordwainers to be served, Chet started for the kitchen to find out the reason for the delay. As he opened the swing- Shoppe" ing doors, he nearly knocked down a group of waiters A house with charm and waitresses, who were peering through the glass and history will be panels to see "The Perfect Fool" in the flesh. On yours with the purchase his return, Chet went over to Mr. Wynn's table of this 6-room home, built about 1827. In a fine resi- dential area in Belfast. Has unique cellar (or shop area) and told him laughingly that service was disrupted with a wooden floor and 2 ground-level entrances which while all of the help tried to get a peek at him. lead onto a rock terrace beneath the 7' X 27' porch. Ed rose in a flash and, giggling, shuffled over to Attached barn, 27' wide and 25' in length, is large enough for 2 cars. $12,000. the service door, which he opened, and swiftly planted a kiss on each of two embarassed waitresses. When he and his daughters had finished lunch Country he arose, bowed to the gaping audience which had Living watched his every motion, and departed. That was the signal for the children to rush out to see him. This could be the one you have been looking As they passed Mrs. Robert L. Stevenson, she said, for. A 2-bedroom house "Hurry, hurry! Perhaps you can get his autograph!" in the country with a view of mountains and scenic country- They were too late, for Ed Wynn already was on side all around. A 10-acre field for viewing and an additional 25 acres, some in hay. Hot-air heat, artesian well and a his way to his yacht, which was anchored in the barn, 30' X 20'. $16,000. harbor. I had a distinct feeling that Mrs. Stevenson also CHAPMAN-WEAVER, Realtors would have liked to have had Ed Wynn's autograph. 17 Main Street, Belfast, Maine 04915 That impression arose out of a Bar Harbor native's 207-338-2388 understanding of our distinguished rusticators who, beneath all their affluent glitter and aloofness, were just as human as we were. FOR SALE A GOOD SELECTION OF: CASTINE SUMMER PROPERTIES One ancient marina on deep-water. YEAR-ROUND HOMES Two gracious Victorians on a shaded street. BUSINESS PROPERTIES One 18th century brick town house on waterfront. One magnificent 18th century federal house. ALSO COTTAGES FOR RENT Castine Real Estate LAWRENCE S. ROBINSON COMPANY Vincent J. LaFlamme, Broker P.O. Box 265, Castine, Maine 04421 SOUTHWEST HARBOR, MAINE TELEPHONE 244-3223 WANNA BUY THE OCEAN? PRIME, Deep water frontage in W. Gouldsboro, on Frenchman's Bay, (Atlantic Ocean) facing Bar Harbor, Acadia National Park and Mount Cadillac. Deep anchorage, swimming, KINGSLEY fishing, lobsters, clams in back yard; FARMS undiscovered fishing villages. Profes- sionally built roads, electricity. Golf nearby in Winter Harbor. From $11,990 (with your own beach) to $5990 with rights to private beach. 20% cash 1820 Cape-Type Home - Cherryfield down - balance 5 to 8 year mortgage - 81% simple interest. "For your protection," title insurance policy is available. Central chimney - hand hewn beams - pegs - Narraguagus Write: KINGSLEY FARMS River view - near ocean - 22 acres included. $17,500. Vernon E. Pettigrew, Real Estate Broker P.O. Box 15, Ellsworth, Maine 04605 3 CHURCH ST., CHERRYFIELD, ME. 04622 TEL. 207-546-7011 OR CALL: 207-667-2696 98