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Bar Harbor: 40 Years Later
Fire
T HE last days of October, 1947, are deeply etched in the memories of all Mainers. After
an unprecedented drought of more than three months' duration, a host of furious
forest fires erupted across the state. Fanned by gale force winds, the fires quickly spread to
the outskirts of towns up and down the state, forcing thousands to flee for their lives. By the
time the last ember had burned itself out weeks later, the Great Fire of 1947 ranked as the
worst natural catastrophe in the state's history. More than a dozen towns were either
destroyed or extensively damaged, 2,500 people were left homeless, and property loss was
estimated at $30 million. Sixteen deaths were attributed directly or indirectly to the
conflagration. Hardest hit was York County, but it was Bar Harbor that grabbed the head-
lines. The idea of this storied playground of the idle rich going up in smoke gripped the
popular imagination. But the fire itself was much more than a newsstand sensation, as
indicated by the aerial photograph (inset) showing one of the outbreaks gathering force in
the Aunt Betty Pond area of Acadia National Park (Somes Sound visible at far right). In a
matter of a few days, it burned more than 17,000 acres of New England's most scenic
landscape. Property loss totalled some $12 million and included 170 permanent homes and
67 of the area's summer "cottages." Only a last-minute wind shift saved the downtown area
and prevented a disastrous loss of life. It required decades for the town to recover physically
and economically from the devastation. Bar Harbor today is a vastly different place than
it was forty years ago. The wealthy rusticators have scattered, to be replaced by throngs of
tourists. Public excursion boats and medium-sized sailing vessels crowd the anchorage
between the Porcupines and the public landing where huge steam yachts used to moor. But
the beauty of the magnificent setting has been restored and Acadia National Park reigns
once again as one of the nation's most popular parks. As the article that begins on the
40
"My father held a dinner dance every
summer. He would hire a large band
for the house and a smaller one for
his yacht, which was anchored off-
shore. Launches went back and forth
between the house and the boat."
-A. Atwater Kent, Jr.
E
VEN after forty years, talking about the Bar Harbor fire
gives me goose bumps," admits Jack Walls, lifelong
resident of the famous resort town. "I was fifteen in 1947, and
they let us out of high school to fight the fire. I was assigned to
a tank truck, and we were trying to get back to Bar Harbor.
Trees on both sides of the road were literally exploding into
flame. A half mile from town, the smoke got so thick the driver
ran the truck off the road. So we used water from the tank to wet
down our shirts, pulled them over our heads, and ran for it. One
man was about sixty, and he was panting so hard I had to keep
pulling him along. We finally came out of the smoke and flames
by the ballpark."
While recalling that grim October in 1947, Walls waits on
customers in his family's grocery store, not far from the
ballpark. For years prior to Bar Harbor's Great Fire, the store
was patronized by the affluent elite - Vanderbilts, Rockefel-
lers, Pulitzers, and the like - who made Bar Harbor and near-
by villages their summer playground. Walls remembers de-
livering everything from caviar to shredded wheat to the
palatial summer homes that the wealthy preferred to call their
cottages.
In truth, they were mansions, extravagant estates perched
on the hills overlooking Bar Harbor, on the eastern coast of
Mount Desert Island. They also lined the seashore north of
town, SO imposingly that locals dubbed the shore road "Million-
aires' Row." One elegant cottage contained no fewer than
Although the substantial Bar Harbor summer cottage of A.
eighty rooms (some with doorknobs of gold) and twenty-six
Atwater Kent, Jr., who now summers at Northeast Harbor
imported marble fireplaces. Not to be outdone, the Pulitzers
(right), escaped the flames of the Great Fire, the spring
owned a sprawling manse called Beachcroft and before that,
house at Sieur de Mont spring (above) was leveled- - like
Chatwold, which contained a "soundproof" granite tower de-
nearly 250 other year-round and seasonal homes on the
signed to muffle the noise of a nearby foghorn.
island. "It was devastation," recalls Kent, who motored
The social life of Bar Harbor glittered - a whirl of dances
around the island assisting firefighters the day after
and sailing parties. Summer resident A. Atwater Kent, Jr.,
Bar Harbor was evacuated. "All the fire engines in
recalls the 1947 season revolving around black-tie dinners at
the country could not have stopped that fire."
the Bar Harbor Club. At the time, Kent owned Brook End, a
rambling three-story, stone and shingle cottage built in 1880.
Next door was Sonogee, owned by Kent's father, the self-made
radio czar famous for saying he wished to enjoy "the simple life
on a grand scale." A noteworthy feature of Sonogee was an
eleven-car garage containing a turntable so the automobiles
could be turned around inside and driven out frontwards.
"Freddy Vanderbilt sold Sonogee to my father," Kent recalls,
"and my father held a dinner dance there every summer. He
Article by Norah Deakin Davis
would hire a large band for the house and a smaller one for his
yacht, which was anchored offshore. Launches went back and
Photographs by Kip Brundage
forth between the house and the boat."
40 DOWN EAST
"I was assigned to a tank truck, and
we were trying to get back to
Bar Harbor. Trees on both sides of
the road were literally exploding
into flame. A half mile from town, the
smoke got so thick the driver ran
the truck off the road."
-Jack Walls
By 1947, Bar Harbor's cottage era was beginning to wane.
Always simpler and more casual than that of Newport, the era's
other famous watering hole of the rich, Bar Harbor's resort life
emphasized enjoying the beauties of Mount Desert Island, or-
as one commentator wrote - "walking, talking, and flirting."
Local historian Gladys O'Neil attributes the resort's decline to
the younger crowd desiring a more exciting night life. "Also,"
she adds, "after the war, it was difficult to get help."
Many cottages were vacant or for sale in 1947. Of fifteen
grand hotels that had dominated Bar Harbor in its heyday, only
three remained - the DeGregoire, Belmont, and Malvern. The
exclusive clothing and millinery shops that had once lined
Main Street had dwindled to a handful of boutiques, like Elise
of New York.
Still, the livelihoods of most of Bar Harbor's 3,500 perma-
nent residents remained tied to the summer colony. To be sure,
a few found work at Jackson Laboratory, a genetics research
facility on the southern edge of town, or with Acadia National
Park, which covered a third of the fifteen-mile-long island. But
most were still employed at the hotels, shops, or cottages. It was
this world that the holocaust of 1947 brought to a fiery end.
T
HAT autumn, wells were going dry, pine needles
crumbled at the slightest touch, and the soil itself was
parched and powdery. By September, after an arid July and
At the Bar Harbor ballpark, troops guarded possessions
August, Maine was experiencing the worst drought on record.
abandoned by the more than 2,500 townspeople who had
Then October arrived, along with a glorious Indian summer.
gathered there prior to marching six blocks to the
The weathermen held out no hope of rain.
town wharf to await evacuation from the island.
On Friday, October 17th, Governor Horace Hildreth took
Newspaper headlines compared the exodus to Dunkirk.
the drastic step of closing the woods - with the deer season
Most of the sixty-seven palatial summer estates that fell
only days away. At 4 P.M. that same day, the Bar Harbor Fire
to the flames in 1947 were never rebuilt, leaving the island
Department received a report of a column of smoke six miles
dotted with imposing granite and concrete foundations
northwest of town, apparently coming from Dolliver's Dump
(opposite), some of which remain forty years later.
or the cranberry bog that surrounded it. The exact point of
origin is a matter of dispute today. "My father, William Dol-
liver, leased his land to the town for a dump," says Mildred
Gilley, of Northeast Harbor. "But my family always thought
the fire started in the bog." After forty years, the cause of the fire
is still unknown. It could have been a cigarette dropped by berry
pickers, or the heat of the sun focusing through a shard of glass.
Either was possible in a tinder-dry bog.
Fire Chief David Sleeper - 42, tall, slightly built, and
bespectacled-had fought a number of forest fires in his eleven
years as a fireman. He immediately dispatched a tank truck. The
driver, after an unsuccessful attempt to douse the flames, called
for reinforcements, and Chief Sleeper sounded the forest fire
alarm. By midnight, the blaze had burned 100 acres but was
42 DOWN EAST
under control. Over the weekend, the chief ordered water
pumped around the clock on hot spots and along the perimeter
of the burn.
On Monday, the bog smoldered, the fire seemingly almost
out, but on Tuesday morning, the twenty-first, a small blaze
suddenly flared up outside the fire line. Fanned by a brisk
breeze, the flames raced through nearby woods. Chief Sleeper
was not taking any chances. He rushed to a phone and called the
island's four other fire departments, as well as Dow Field, the
army base in Bangor. Within minutes, a convoy of 200 soldiers
set out for the island.
The rest of Tuesday morning, the fire burned out of control
for the first time. It was roaring southeast directly toward a large
farm surrounded by pastures. Chief Sleeper massed his men at
the farm, hoping to stop the blaze at this natural barrier.
At noon, a fresh crew from Bar Harbor drove up - with
them a young mason named Arden Peach. As they arrived, the
fire was still in the woods well back from the farm. Suddenly,
sparks caught by the wind landed on the roof of the barn. The
building burst into flames, shooting embers into the woods on
the far side. The fire was now moving uphill, away from any
source of water. "We couldn't hold it. There was too much fire
and too few men," says Peach.
Chief Sleeper moved his crews farther south to the next
natural firebreak - Eagle Lake Road, an east-west artery that
bisects the island. To meet the fire head on, Peach and the other
firefighters climbed a wooded hill, carrying shovels, picks, and
fire hoses. Water was pumped from a nearby lake, but to no
avail. "The heat kept moving us back," he recalls. "The soles of
my shoes burned, and I was too excited to notice. Then my hair
and eyebrows got singed, and I had to go back to the firehouse.
They gave me a new pair of boots, and a nurse in dungarees put
salve in my eyes."
The command station - the Bar Harbor firehouse -
teemed with people. Unshaven firefighters blackened with soot
would stagger in and collapse for a couple of hours. Volunteers
dropped by to lend a hand turning out hundreds of sandwiches
from food donated by towns on the mainland. Now and then, the
fire chief would dash in from the fire front, shouting orders.
Ruth Sleeper scoured the town for oranges SO she could squeeze
juice to soothe her husband's hoarse throat.
B
Y nightfall on Tuesday, the fire was beginning to close in
on Bar Harbor, though most residents were still unaware
of the danger. The flames were moving east directly toward
town, spreading south into the national park, and north toward
Hulls Cove, a tiny village two miles up the coast from the
SEPTEMBER 1987
43
"My job was to keep a constant flow
of water on the roof of the wooden
wing [of the hospital], while the
patients were evacuated to the fire-
proof section. If the building caught,
I was supposed to escape over
the rocks to a boat waiting offshore."
-Arden Peach
celebrated resort community. At daybreak, however, the wind
miraculously shifted, stopping the advance just behind the last
hill protecting Bar Harbor.
The next day, Wednesday, the fire engulfed over 2,200
acres, driving toward the center of the island but coming no
closer to Bar Harbor. "That second day, I was sent out on a tank
truck with my brother, and my dad was at the wheel," recalls
Peach. "As we went into some woods near Hulls Cove, men in
a jeep came by and yelled for us to get out. We turned around,
but the fire crossed the road in front of us. We were surrounded
and had no idea how far the wall of fire extended. We wet down
the truck, and each other. My brother and I lay on the cab
holding fire hoses, and we sprayed a water wall that we could
drive through."
Under most immediate attack the following day, Thursday,
October 23rd, was Hulls Cove. On the shore halfway between
Hulls Cove and Bar Harbor was Brook End, Atwater Kent's
cottage. Kent, 39, had stayed on the island that fall with his wife
and children to enjoy the Indian summer. "The fire sort of
tacked," he recalls, "first coming towards Hulls Cove and then
backing off, then coming on again. Thursday morning, I
climbed up on our roof and hosed it down. Finally, I decided we
should leave, SO I rigged up a sprinkler. Then I drove our 1914
Whipped by winds gusting to eighty-five miles an hour, the
Pierce-Arrow to Ted Browning's house in Bar Harbor. I left the
inferno eventually cut off all roads leading out of
Pierce-Arrow there in an open field. When I got back to Brook
Bar Harbor, forcing townspeople and a few remaining
End, we packed our other cars with drawers full of ornaments
vacationers into vessels of every size and description. Even
my mother's maids had put away.
after the threat to downtown Bar Harbor had abated, the fire
"We drove to the Brownings' then, and they served us
continued to burn and smolder on the island for another
lunch, although the fire had knocked out electricity all over the
three weeks, consuming additional acreage beyond the
island. Afterwards, we formed a bucket brigade-my wife and
massive stone relics of the great cottages (right).
children helped - to take pictures and memorabilia off the
Brownings' walls. He had a fireproof place with a steel door in
the basement. Finally, saw smoke coming, SO I apologized and
said we had to take our children and leave."
A few permanent residents were also trying to save some of
their belongings. Mike Curtis, a high-school freshman, was
part of a crew in Hulls Cove that carried furniture out of a house
and trucked it over the bridge and causeway that connect the
island to the mainland. He also recalls that Katherine Richards
and her husband, Carl, who was the caretaker at the Pulitzer's
cottage, drove their employer's automobiles off the island,
leaving behind their own vehicle in hopes that their nephew
would think to come and save it. Most residents, however, say
they didn't realize the seriousness of the situation until Thurs-
day afternoon, and by then it was too late to pack anything.
Deputy Fire Chief Carroll Brown - businessman, ex-
selectman, and president of the hospital board - was in charge
44 DOWN EAST
of the battle to defend Hulls Cove. "I had my regular crew of
trained firefighters, plus a whole company from Dow Field," he
recalls. "By then, the fire was moving SO fast we didn't use any
large equipment like bulldozers, for fear we'd lose them. So all
we had were Indian pumps, which hold about five gallons each.
They're all right for a grass fire, but on that fire, they did about
as much good as spitting on it."
Roaring down on Hulls Cove was an inferno. Driven by a
freak gale-force wind, it had become a crown fire, spreading
from treetop to treetop. Pine cones would explode, shooting
balls of fire over the firefighters' heads. Many were forced to
run for their lives. One man was alone in the woods fighting a
grass fire when it crowned. He sprinted for the road, with trees
bursting into flame in front of him as if doused with gasoline.
The smoke was SO dense he had to follow the fire hose to find
his way. Reaching the road, he bolted to a stone bridge and
huddled underneath while a wall of flame passed overhead,
showering his clothes with sparks.
The gale, gusting to eighty-five miles per hour, spread the
fire so fast that other firefighters had to take to the ocean. A
plumber named Bernard Holmes was trapped on a beach for
two hours, the maelstrom burning in front of him. Bud Graham,
a watchmaker, fled along a rocky stretch of shoreline to save his
life.
Utterly capricious, the wind suddenly shifted, giving a
reprieve to most of Hulls Cove. But now it was driving the
inferno directly towards Bar Harbor along Millionaires' Row,
cutting off any escape to the north. Young Mike Curtis fled in
front of it, the heat SO intense it blistered the paint on his truck.
Eyewitnesses report the wind sounded like a freight train.
U
NABLE to reach the mainland by the most direct route,
Atwater Kent drove his family around the island, going
south and then west to circle behind the fire. Stopping at a
friend's cottage beyond the danger zone, he watched its prog-
ress from an upstairs window. "I wanted to be sure it didn't turn
and cut us off from the bridge." Finally, he decided the time had
come to leave. He drove his family to the mainland and found
rooms in an Ellsworth hotel.
Back in Bar Harbor, the sky was yellow with smoke. The air
was filled with dust and autumn leaves. For the firefighters'
wives, the day had been one of waiting. Unable to stand the
anxiety any longer, one woman ventured out with her infant.
Pushing the baby carriage, she noticed an increase in the smoke
and was about to turn back when, at 4:10 P.M., the firehouse horn
suddenly blasted seven times - the signal for evacuation.
Many people panicked, leaving behind the family silver and
SEPTEMBER 1987
45
"The fire was moving so fast we
didn't use any large equipment like
bulldozers, for fear we'd lose them.
So all we had were Indian pumps.
They're all right for a grass fire,
but on that fire, they did about as
much good as spitting on it."
-Carroll Brown
cherished photographs they had packed earlier in the day. One
lady grabbed the bottom of a pressure cooker, another a box of
hair ribbons. A thirteen-year-old girl hastily donned all her new
fall clothes, squeezing into two skirts and a pair of slacks, two
blouses, and a couple of sweaters.
While one prong of the firestorm bore down from the north
along Millionaires' Row, another crested Great Hill, the bump
of land that had served as the town's western defense two days
earlier. On the south, the fire was barreling in from the national
park. To the east lay the cold Atlantic.
A scientist fearing for the safety of Jackson Laboratory
hastened there with his wife. "As I turned into the driveway,"
says Dr. George Snell, winner of the 1980 Nobel Prize for
medicine, "the trees around the lab were already burning. When
the building caught, I lost a year's work on the experiment that
got the Nobel Prize."
Leaving Jackson Laboratory, the Snells joined a caravan of
cars, bumper to bumper, heading south toward the village of
Otter Creek. Some were loaded with mattresses and furniture.
Many refugees assumed their car was the last in line, so near
were the flames. Sparks and flaming embers repeatedly struck
the vehicles. For three miles, the heat was fierce as the cars
crawled along. The whole time, wrote one survivor, they feared
they would be burned to death in that creeping caravan.
Finally, the road to the south was judged impassable, and
police at the edge of town began waving the carloads of
refugees into the ballpark, Bar Harbor's largest open field.
People on foot were running for the park, children were crying,
The wealthy summer colony that dominated Bar Harbor for
and sirens screaming. Soldiers in trucks drove the streets
generations was largely dispersed by the fire - in many
rounding up the disabled and the disoriented and taking them to
cases to other parts of Mount Desert Island- - but the locale
the park. One elderly man with a cat in his arms was lifted into
has hardly been forgotten by well-heeled rusticators.
a truck, but climbed back down when the cat sprang away. He
Magnificent new summer homes have arisen at such
was never seen again. After the fire, amid the rubble of his
breathtaking sites as Schooner Head (above), and in
burned-out home, bones thought to be his were found in the
town, next to the municipal wharf, the old Bar Harbor
cellar hole.
Reading Room (now called the Bar Harbor Inn)
A tense hour passed at the ballpark. The air was becoming
is thronged with visitors all summer long (opposite).
uncomfortably smoky, SO the police chief decided to move the
crowd to the town wharf. A procession of 2,500 women,
children, and elderly men set out, streaming down Main Street.
As they walked the six blocks to the pier, the chief radioed the
Coast Guard to send all available vessels. Fishing boats, cabin
cruisers, sardine carriers, Coast Guard cutters, and a navy
destroyer began steaming toward Bar Harbor on a mission of
rescue. Newspaper headlines across the nation noted the resem-
blance to Dunkirk.
The refugees stood shivering on the pier, as the wind grew
chilly with the approach of the October evening. Suddenly the
crowd noticed flames shooting high in the air four blocks away
at the end of West Street. It was the DeGregoire Hotel.
Chief Sleeper had selected the DeGregoire, at the corner of
West and Eden, as the place to stage his final stand. "The chief
oy then had the fire departments from fourteen mainland towns
helping him," explains Carroll Brown. Counting soldiers,
trained firefighters, and citizens, there were now 1,500 men
battling the holocaust. "The chief of the Camden Fire Depart-
ment, Allen Payson, was an older man, very experienced,"
Brown recalls, "and he was Sleeper's right-hand man. Payson
took charge of the DeGregoire."
Arden Peach, who had an uncanny knack for showing up at
RESTAURANT
the center of action, was assigned to Payson's crew. The
Camden chief directed Peach and the other men to wet down
blankets to use as heat reflectors to shield themselves SO they
could move in close with their hoses. This inspired tactic was
unable to save the DeGregoire, but all accounts credit the
Camden chief's daring and his men's heroism with slowing the
fire sufficiently to save West Street.
Just as the assault began, Peach was taken off the DeGreg-
oire and reassigned to the hospital, which was off Main Street
near the shore. "My job was to keep a constant flow of water on
the roof of the wooden wing, while the patients were evacuated
to the fireproof section," recalls Peach. "Big cinders, three
inches across, were falling all around. Water kept cascading
back down on me from the roof. It was the only time during the
whole fire that I was cold. If the building caught, I was supposed
to escape over the rocks to a boat waiting offshore."
Whether there was a boat is dubious. Neil Bunker, a hospital
administrator, remembers three ambulances and a few station
wagons standing by to take all fifty patients to the town wharf,
where boats were expected momentarily. Dorothy Worcester,
head nurse in the operating room, recalls wondering how
ambulances would get through if Main Street caught fire. "I
worried about the filling stations blowing up and blocking the
street." She also remembers the precautions the hospital staff
took: "We had morphine vials in our pockets, and we moved the
oxygen tanks, which are explosive, to the brick wing." She
adds, "Meanwhile, we delivered a baby."
Nurse Worcester also remembers that her father set out with
a boat from the other side of the island but had to turn back
because the smoke was so bad. On the wharf, hundreds waited
quietly for help to arrive. "We stood in back of some cars to cut
the wind," Roy Blake, a movie projectionist, remembers. "The
boats didn't seem to come. The whole thing was eerie. Except
for the wind, there was no sound."
(Continued on page 101)
SEPTEMBER 1987
47
BAR HARBOR FIRE
(Continued from page 47)
David & Susan
LOG HOMES
MARGONELLI
SINCE 1926
E
VENTUALLY, an occasional
FINE HANDMADE FURNITURE
lobsterboat began making it
For more than half a century,
through, but not before a fifty-one-year-
L.C. Andrew has been building
old man had collapsed on the pier and
Maine Cedar Log Homes which
died of a heart attack. The wind was
combine versatile styling with zero
blowing across the harbor at forty knots,
maintenance. Built for easy care
with Northern White Cedar, and
recalls a boatbuilder named Tyler Proc-
Andersen insulated windows,
tor, who was there with his mother-in-
these log homes range from
law. "The Bar Harbor pier is exposed,"
vacation retreats to year
he notes. "It's a hard chance for a boat
round homes.
even to land in there." When the vessels
Experience counts - and we've
began arriving, at least two elderly men
got plenty! Find out more today.
Dealer inquiries welcome.
trying to board fell into the water.
Write for free folder or send $4
Proctor's mother-in-law refused point-
for new 4-color brochure.
blank even to try.
Jo Ann Cantwell, 18, was one of 400
refugees eventually evacuated by water.
"I was with my husband and father-in-
Our walnut music cabinet was designed to
law on a twenty-foot fishing boat," she
hold a music collection. 66" high by 34"
wide. The doors have puffed panels. We
says, recalling their ordeal. "The captain
have a representative collection of color
MHE
tried to take us to Winter Harbor, but the
photos for $5, refundable upon return of the
wind was too strong to get in. The boat
photos. Our studio-showroom is on the
River Road, 4 miles from Damariscotta center
was really rocking, and one lady got
or 6 miles from Rt. 27 in Boothbay. Open
seasick. We were soaked with spray, and
Mon.-Sat. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
L.C. Andrew, Dept. DE
I had a blanket over my head to keep my
207-633-3326
MAINE CEDAR LOG HOMES
ears from freezing. It was dark, and we
RFD 1, BOX 258-A, RIVER ROAD
MAIN ST., WINDHAM MAINE 04062 207-892-8561 1-800-341-0405
NORTH EDGECOMB, MAINE 04556
couldn't see where we were going. It was
two hours before we made it around to
Southwest Harbor. The whole time, my
father-in-law was praying."
CROCKER HOUSE
Meanwhile, in Hulls Cove, Carroll
COUNTRY INN
Brown and an assistant waited for the
worst to pass and then braved a wall of
flame to drive to Bar Harbor. They
headed for the corner of Eden and Mount
Desert streets, where the Belmont Hotel
stood next door to the dignified Malvern
Hotel. "I walked up the street and the
Malvern greenhouses were burning, SO I
hoofed it as fast as I could to the firehouse
to see what I could get for equipment,"
recalls Brown. "I was gone less than a
half-hour. By the time I got back, both
little out of the way and way out of the
hotels had exploded. They went up that
In 1939,
ordinary"
fast. There was nobody around to save
Gandhi told Adelaide
Ten individually appointed guest rooms, each
anything, just me and one other person.
that pottery
with private bath, in a recently restored 103-
year-old inn.
That was the way the hotel era ended."
must be taken seriously
Gourmet restaurant with a full liquor license.
Neighboring houses burned to the
Adelaide Pearson returned to Maine to in-
ground in minutes, as if they were card-
still a new dignity in the pottery she established
Quiet setting, 200 yards from Frenchman's
in Blue Hill.
Bay.
board boxes. The fire was heading for
Today, complete settings of tableware and
downtown - and the pier. Just then, the
accessories stand for the well-known tradition
Acadia National Park region.
Bucksport Fire Department arrived.
of Rowantrees Pottery. Each piece is indivi-
Open May 1st through Thanksgiving.
dually crafted and glazed, then fired to a kiln
Hooking their hoses to fire hydrants, the
temperature of 1900 degrees. The clay itself and
Bucksport men tapped Bar Harbor's
the materials that form Rowantrees' vivid glaze
colors come from this same locality.
Crocker House
ample water supply. Their efforts, to-
Just come up the garden path and visit the
Hancock Point, Maine
gether with those of the Camden chief on
pottery, or send $1.00 for an ALL-NEW color
catalogue today.
04640
West Street, stopped the advance of the
fire for the first time in three days. Most
rowantrees
207-422-6806
of downtown Bar Harbor was saved.
pottery
Featured in "Country Inns and Back Roads"
At 10:00 P.M., the state police an-
Box C-D, Blue Hill, Maine 04614 207-374-5535
nounced to the remaining 2,100 people
SEPTEMBER 1987
101
on the wharf that bulldozers had cleared
the northern route out of town. It was still
risky, but cars would be able to proceed
single file. Moving as quickly as the
A.G.A. CORREA'S
smoke permitted, the procession of refu-
gees bumped over fire hoses and started
HANDWOVEN
along Millionaires' Row. On both sides
of the road telephone poles burned like
TURK'S HEAD
flaming torches, and firebrands littered
JEWELRY
the pavement. "It was like driving into a
Creating solid gold
furnace," one survivor recalls. "We were
turk's head jewelry
W. Sepe, Architect
too numb to be afraid," says another.
occurred to me the
If you are interested in building a home,
Tyler Proctor and his mother-in-law
moment I saw my
child's nylon string
consider the benefits of the timber
were in a convertible. Before their car
bracelet of the same
frame.
started through the gauntlet, a fire truck
design. Turk's Heads
traditional mortise-&-tenon joinery,
wet the roof down. Other trucks stationed
have been found
carved in wood, ivory
oak pegged
along the way sprayed it again. Proctor
and stone, but to the
planed & oiled timbers in pine & oak
and others wondered, "What if we have a
best of my knowledge,
super-insulated stress skin panels
flat tire or an accident?" One traffic acci-
never before created
in gold. This very old
consultation & design services
dent did occur when a truckload of sol-
design dates back to
diers heading toward Bar Harbor col-
Leonardo da Vinci,
Call or write for
lided with a refugee vehicle. A high-
who illustrated them
in his artwork.
more information.
school girl lost her life, the third and last
Creating this apparently
CONNOLLY &
fatality to result from Bar Harbor's Great
endless weave, from hand drawn wire, represents
Fire.
a most difficult form of goldsmithing. No two are
CO.
As the night wore on, the firestorm
exactly alike. Prompt delivery and
POST & BEAM
unconditionally guaranteed.
tore through Jackson Laboratory and
4 Strand Bracelet 14k $2200. ppd. 18k $2650. ppd.
CONSTRUCTION & RESTORATION
bore down on the island's southeastern
Please call or write for our free catalogue of more turk's
head jewelry, nautical jewelry, diamond constellations, and
shore like a blowtorch, a ball of fire that
the elephant hair bracelet and ring.
346-D NEW MEADOWS ROAD
only the ocean could stop. So intense was
A. G. A. CORREA
WEST BATH, MAINE 04530
this inferno that it traveled over five
P.O. Box 401DE
1-800-341-0788
207-442-8142
Wiscasset, Maine 04578
882-7873 in Maine
miles in only three hours, consuming
over 13,000 acres - compared to a total
of 4,000 the previous two days.
From the mainland, it looked like the
entire island was on fire. Frantic families
with relatives in Bar Harbor listened as
Child's Antique Sleigh
excited radio announcers reported that
townspeople were jumping off the pier to
save themselves from the flames. As one
eyewitness observed, "It was a wild
night."
T
HE refugees slept on cots in evacu-
ation centers in Ellsworth and were
not allowed to return home for several
days, because the national park section of
the island was still burning. Although the
fire was brought under control within a
week, it continued to glow down in the
iron runners
cracks between rock ledges for days after
pine body
oak E ash frames
that. Not until November 14 was the
bronze swans
BRIG
blaze declared officially out.
CLARISSA ANN.
The story of the Bar Harbor fire ran as
BATH. 1824
front-page news worldwide. More than
Maine Maritime Museum
fifty forest fires had raged throughout the
Reproduced by
Bath
state that fall, notably at Kennebunkport
and several other southern Maine com-
SageworkS
Preserving Maine's
maritime heritage
munities, but the conflagration on Mount
Woodworking
Desert Island captured the headlines. In
custom design
children's furniture
Open year round
Paris, Le Figaro claimed it had been set
Box 97
by enraged Maine peasants protesting
Round Pond, ME 04564
Call 207-443-1316
against the grand estates. The New York
(207) 529-5957
for information
Times and Boston Post, eschewing fanci-
ful political interpretations, played the
Handcarved rocking horses also available
102 DOWN EAST
story for its drama, with banner headlines
that thousands were trapped on the pier.
It was the cottages, though, that domi-
The Computer Roll Top Desk
nated the subheads. Mentioned promi-
nently were the estates of publisher Jo-
Features:
seph Pulitzer, author Mary Roberts
Compatible with most major computers
Expertly handcrafted of solid oak and
Rinehart, and conductor Walter Dam-
oak veneers
Rich oil based stain with durable hand
rosch. To a war-hardened public satiated
rubbed lacquer finish
with daily disasters, fire in elegant Bar
Built-in surge protector
Harbor was hot news.
Raised panels
Automatic locking device to
The day after the evacuation, Atwater
lock the curtain and
pedestal drawers
Kent chartered a fishing boat and re-
Fully finished dovetail
turned to find that Brook End was still
drawers
Deluxe roller bearing glides
standing, though a gazebo only seventy
in all drawers
feet away had burned. With the fire still
File drawer
adjustable to
raging in the park, Kent drove the back
legal and letter
size
roads in his Cadillac filled with sand-
Carved drawer
pulls
wiches and a five-gallon jug of coffee,
Oak dividers in
seeking out hungry firefighters.
all drawers
Oak pencil trays
"It was devastation," he recalls, a no
Flip-up copy
man's land. "All the fire engines in the
holder
Solid brass
country could not have stopped that fire."
lacquered
The hillsides were blackened with the
hardware
Disk storage in
skeletons of millions of trees. Back in
cubby hole
section
M-F 9-5:30
Bar Harbor on Millionaires' Row, all that
Thu. 'til 8
remained of the once-grand cottages of
Sat. 9-5
many of his friends were brick chimneys
standing amid the rubble like weary
HARDWARE SPECIALTIES
sentries. Hazards, they were dynamited
COR. UNION & COMMERCIAL STS., PORTLAND 775-3346
during the following weeks.
Send for free Oak Desk booklet
"A lot of my friends flew up to view
the ruins," Kent recalls. Out of 222 cot-
tages, sixty-seven had burned. Joseph
Pulitzer chartered a plane when he was
unable to reach his caretaker with the
phone lines down. Pulitzer pulled up to
Carl Richards' house and, without pre-
shaw's
liminaries, inquired, "Did we lose every-
thing?" Richards replied that everything
Checkout the world
was saved, including Pulitzer's automo-
biles.
of different and
Mrs. Edith Pulitzer Moore, his sister,
was not as fortunate. When Mrs. Moore
delightful foods.
flew in, Atwater Kent took her to the
island by boat. Her caretaker, Reginald
Gray, and his wife, Rita, had tragic news.
The only thing saved from her three-
story cottage, Woodlands, was a white
statuette of an angel. It had been stored
in the attic and miraculously turned up in
the rubble, not even blackened. Gone
were Mrs. Moore's antique furniture,
her silver, linens, and Oriental rugs. For-
tunately, Gray had placed her paint-
ings in storage at the bank's vault that
fall, as he always did at the close of the
season.
Mrs. Moore immediately purchased
another cottage, thereby assuring the
Grays, who had also lost everything, that
they would have a home and a job. Of the
other summer residents who had been
burned out, some purchased or leased
cottages. A few rebuilt- but only one on
the same site - and all on a more modest
SEPTEMBER 1987
103
scale. Some never returned to Bar Harbor
Maine Pine Log
MAINE CAREERS
at all.
Homes
ENGINEERING
Those who did come back were
DATA PROCESSING
keenly aware that many Bar Harborites
ACCOUNTING BANKING
had suffered a double loss. Out of 667
We have been placing professionals
year-round houses, 170 or one-fourth
in Maine and N.H. since 1966 and
presently list many fine openings. If
of the town - had burned, and property
you qualify for a position in Data Pro-
damages totaled $12 million. With the
cessing, Accounting, Engineering or
hotels and nearly a third of the cottages
Banking at $18,000 to $60,000,
We supply
contact us in confidence. Client com-
gone, many who had lost their homes
everything, kitchens and
panies pay our fee.
were also out of work.
bathrooms, for total quality control.
In an outpouring of noblesse oblige,
Call or write for a free brochure.
ROGERS AND SEYMOUR
INCORPORATED
the summer colony pledged gifts of
Rte. 27, Belgrade
Hammond
PERSONNEL CONSULTANTS
Maine 04917
222 Auburn St. Portland, Me. 04103/207-797-2191
money and, together with the town's
1-800-452-1904
Lumber Company
business community, purchased shares
in a new hotel in an effort to replace lost
jobs. A wing was added to an existing
clubhouse known as the Reading Room,
When you
and the resulting hotel (today called the
move Down East,
Bar Harbor Inn) opened its doors in rec-
ord time.
call
John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who had
maintained a forestry crew on the island
EarleW.Noyes
for years, sent his men to help clean up
the woods and remove eyesores. Trees
Schueler Antiques
Sons
that showed any signs of life were left
Address: Agents for United Van Lines
standing, and charred logs were left on
Oxford & Franklin Sts., Portland, ME
the ground to help stop erosion. In some
10 High Street ( Route 1)
Toll Free: Within Maine 800-482-0700
areas, the soil itself-the humus-had
Camden, Maine 04843
Outside Maine 800-341-7576
Portland Area 775-5876
burned. When the ashes from the fire
207-236-2770
blew away, the roots of the trees stood
grotesquely exposed. Nevertheless, by
the first summer after the fire, asters were
blooming and blueberry bushes were
Introducing the
helping to hide the scars. Five years later,
a luxuriant growth of birch, aspen, oak,
" "Sebasco Secretary"
and cherry was well established.
What at first seemed like a deathblow
A desk originally designed for
for Bar Harbor was starting to look less
guest rooms at Sebasco Lodge.
hopeless. Year-round homes were
Top opens for write-on surface.
quickly rebuilt with lumber milled from
CONCEPTS
the undamaged heartwood of charred
Only $375
trees. Jackson Laboratory also reopened,
(as shown)
eventually becoming one of the nation's
major cancer research centers.
9 Circus Time Rd.
Box 429, Rte. 16
Airport Mall
The economic recovery took years,
So. Portland, ME
Jackson, NH
Bangor, ME
04106
03846
04401
however. Leslie C. Brewer, community
207-775-4312
603-383-6460
207-942-1017
leader and fourth-generation resident of
the island, was a member of the town
council in the late 1950s. At that time, he
found Bar Harbor's tax base growing at a
much slower rate than was predicted.
Brewer believes the town did not fully
snap back until quite recently.
THE
Jack Walls agrees. More than 90 per-
PLAINS
GALLERY
cent of his grocery business was wiped
out by the fire. Asked when Bar Harbor
SOUTHWEST ART
28
INDIAN
EXCHANGE
STREET
PORTLAND
ME
returned to normal, his standard reply is,
04101
ARTIFACTS
(207)
774-7500
"Last year." In 1947, Bar Harborites lost
JEWELRY
their homes, jobs, and possessions, but
INTERIOR
not, for Walls and many others, their
sense of humor. Nor did they lose the
beauty of the sea and the island. The one
always remained - and the other has
come back.
104
DOWN EAST