lebraiting 2 BH Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, May 15, 1996 Bar Harbor has storied tradition as 'summer colony' By Brian Swartz Advertising Staff Editor There was a time when few city folk summered on MDI. An age-old summer oasis for Maine Indians, a demarcation line during the 150-year New World terri- torial struggles between Britain and France, the island drew only sporadic set- tlement until the late 18th century. After the Revolution placed MDI in American hands, Massachusetts resi- dents, some of them Continental soldiers paid off in land, moved to Maine. Settlers gradually appeared on MDI, initially at Somesville (named for Abraham Somes) and later on nearby islands. Local historians believe that Nicholas Thomas was the first settler in Bar Har- bor, which geographically encompasses northern MDI. Like other colonists who moved onto the island, Thomas survived by farming and fishing, cutting trees to build a house and keeping livestock to provide milk, meat, and hides. In the early 19th century, MDI residents probably realized they lived among na- tural beauty, but a scenic landscape could not feed hungry children. Tourism played no relevant role in the local economy at least until 1844, when New York artist Thomas Cole visited MDI. Enamored with the island's wild won- The Rodick House once symbolized the century. A wealthy summer colony soon large mansions that mirrored monied der, Cole painted landscapes that rated excellent accommodations that attracted eschewed rented rooms for elegant lifestyles pursued elsewhere in the highly with the NYC society when he re- tourists to Bar Harbor in the late 19th summer cottages, which were actually Northeast. turned home. Just as explorers' fanciful descriptions and paints of the New World New York, and Boston gentility. society relied on year-round MDI resi- discontent experienced by year-round had spurred European colonization, the From 1860 to the mid-1880s, the MDI dents for its success. The soirees, teas, residents. It appears in comments record- Cole landscapes inspired genteel New summer colony packed the local hotels. and tennis matches required someone to ed at selectmen's meetings, at town meet- Yorkers to experience MDI for Wealthy industrialists and financiers fre- serve food, pour tea, or chase bouncing ings, or at legislative hearings in themselves. quently sent their families, servants, and tennis balls. Accustomed to hiring ser- Augusta. While dependent on the wealthy Among the early artists to depict MDI baggage to the island weeks before arriv- vants to handle such mundane chores, the cottagers for employment, many MDI was Frederic Church, who boarded at the ing themselves. Wives and children often summer folk hired local residents as residents resented their unofficial relega- Harbor House in summer 1850. He epito- spent the summer on MDI while husbands maids, nannies, cooks, and tion to a lower status in society. mized the rusticators, MDI's earliest and fathers returned to New York to con- groundskeepers. Yet even among those MDI residents summer folk. They rented living space duct business. Needing jobs to feed their families, re- who worked for the cottagers, a strata from MDI residents, explored the island, As would happen after retirees dis- senting the wealth so ostentatiously developed. Reflecting their employers' and launched the local hospitality trade. covered Florida in the mid-20th century, a flashed by their summer neighbors, MDI snobbery, maids and maintenance men, Like the early New World explorers, the transient lifestyle gradually wearied the residents took jobs on the estates. The drivers and nannies established a pecking rusticators returned home and told their summer folk. Tired of living in rented "big house on the hill," a concept popular- order based on who employed them. friends about where they had been, what ized by 20th-century cinema, was a real- The summer colony could last only as quarters and directing mail and guests to they had seen, and what they had done. temporary addresses, the summer tour- ity everywhere on eastern MDI. long as the money did. The Depression Verbal advertising brought more people wiped out fortunes in days, sometimes ists started building cottages that to na- to MDI; some 10 years after Church had Island society stratified by the early hours, draining the economic lifeblood of tive MDI residents resembled palatial rented a room from Albert Higgins at the 1900s. Although they did not live on MDI MDI's summer folk. Families spent mansions. Harbor House, entrepreneurs built hotels year-round, the wealthy cottagers domi- shorter periods on the island, sold their to accommodate the summer folk. Summer folk transplated their societal nated the island's political life. In the lo- cottages to pay bills elsewhere, or failed schedules to the island. Where the rusti- cal archives abound the minutes of town Trains brought the tourists from New to visit altogether. Then World War II York and Boston to ports (Rockland and cators had escaped a hectic lifestyle by meetings during which the wealthy either called young men and women into the Bangor) near MDI. Boarding coastal experiencing remote MDI, wealthy fam- influenced a vote directly or by sending a military, stripping MDI of those people steamers, the summer folk landed at var- ilies organized dances, afternoon teas, co- local supporter to speak for them. The who could work on the estates. ious public wharves on the island, partic- tillions, yacht and horse races, picnics, attitude lingered for decades that what War's end did not restore the fortunes of ularly in Bar Harbor. Many Maine and other events that became de rigeur was good for the summer folk was good the summer colony. Neither did the 1947 residents, especially from the lower Pe- for the upper crust to attend. for the locals. fire, which burned many cottages, leav- nobscot Valley, also summered on MDI, Rivaling a winter schedule on Beacon Some historical texts, especially those ing scorched foundations on the hills rubbing their elbows with Philadelphia, Hill or in Manhattan, this summertime that do not glorify the era, hint at the around Bar Harbor. Happy Birthday Your One-Stop Backyard Bar Harbor! Birding And Nature Store The officers and employees Special Prices On Hummingbird of Machias Savings Bank Feeders! join you in celebrating 200 years! NOW OPEN IN BAR HARBOR ON THE PIER MACHIAS SAVINGS Wild Bird Crossing Backyard birding at its best BANK THE TOTAL SERVICE BANK The Mid Mall 1 West Street Ellie Richardson Machias Calais Columbia Ellsworth 37 Bangor Mall Blvd. Bangor & Harbor Place Bar Harbor Branch Manager Woodland Princeton Houlton Bar Harbor Mon.-Sat. 10-6, Sun. 12-5 MEMBER FDIC 1-800-339-3347 255-3347 Bar Harbor Bar Harbor Branch 288-5826 942-WILD (9453) 288-8171 Open 7 Days A Week Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, May 15, 1996 BH 3 Cog railroad once took tourists to Cadillac summit CADILLAC MOUNTAIN - team pulled the locomotive from Frank Clergue figured the tour- Bar Harbor to a wharf on the ists would pack his daily train north shore of Eagle Lake; a rides up the highest peak on SCOW later took the Mt. Desert to Mount Desert Island, and he was the GMR wharf on the eastern right. They did - for a year. shore. The Wauwinet, according In February 1883, crews start- to Hale, had "to be hauled over ed cutting a right-of-way for a 21/2 miles of road by winch and railroad that would extend from cable" and lauched in Eagle a landing on Eagle Lake to a ho- Lake. tel atop Green Mountain (later On May 30, 1883, the Mt. Desert renamed Cadillac). After obtain- informally huffed and puffed ing a charter from the Maine passengers up Cadillac for the Railway Commission, Clergue first time. The track crew had wasted no time in getting his cross-laid the timbers, often bolt- Green Mountain Railway up and ing them directly to the moun- running; he had raised about tain granite, and had then bolted $100,000 from investors, and they the rails to the timbers. expected an immediate return on The GMR enjoyed a successful that investment. opening season. Four times a Clergue had conceptualized day, passengers disembarked at the railroad after noticing that the GMR wharf on the north tourists hired horse-drawn shore of Eagle Lake and boarded teams to travel a private toll the Wauwinet for a short cruise road to the Cadillac summit. A to the railhead wharf. The train three-story hotel, owned by the departed from the summit four same people who owned the toll times daily, too, with the last road, adorned the peak (in a pho- downhill trip scheduled at 4:20 to taken possibly from Bar Is- p.m. Those tourists who failed to land in the late 19th century, the catch that train either spent the hotel can be seen atop Cadillac), night at the hotel or walked to and tourists frequently stayed Bar Harbor via the unlit toll overnight. The engine "Mt. Desert," imported to Mount Desert await their ride to the summit. (Photo courtesy of road. Clergue figured he could by- Island by Frank Clergue, idles on the lower slopes of Southwest Harbor Public Library) Clergue claimed the railroad pass the toll road with a railroad, Cadillac Mountain as stylishly dressed passengers paid a 6 percent dividend in 1883. apparently a standard guage Considered a novelty, the line line. Writing in "All Aboard for railway could cope with (the) came the dilapidated hotel, but While crews stacked the felled drew many riders. John Ed- Yesterday!' Richard W. Hale one-in-three gradient." not the toll road, whose owners timber for later use by the train, wards Godfrey, a probate judge Jr. implies that Clergue did not No problem, Clergue respond- apparently played Clergue for a Clergue acquired a small steam in Bangor, recalled his Septem- verify the steep Cadillac slopes, ed. He had already acquired 200 rube, pawning onto him the ex- locomotive, named the Mt. De- ber 1883 excursion. "We went up discovering "during the winter vertical acres on Cadillac's west- pensive restorations necessary sert, and a small steamer, ren- of 1882-1883" that "only a cog ern face. With the purchase to recapture the hotel's glory. amed the Wauwinet. A 14-horse Continued on Page 6 PARTNER SHIP Celebrating 40 years of service on Building on the basics. Bar Harbor's All things begin small and spare - towns, businesses, and personal relation- ships. The things that last, however, begin on rock solid foundations. Since Bicentennial. 1887, Bar Harbor Banking and Trust Company has built strong and endur- ing relationships with the people, businesses and communities we serve from Deer Isle to Lubec. The foundation for these relationships is rock solid: trust, respect, sincerity, understanding, caring, commitment, integrity, loyalty, and a dash of humor. These are the basics on which we can build a solid future with you. BAR HARBOR BANKING AND TRUST COMPANY Don't miss the boat. Marine Atlantic BAR HARBOR BLUE HILL DEER ISLE ELLSWORTH LUBEC MACHIAS Marine Atlantique MILBRIDGE NORTHEAST HARBOR SOUTHWEST HARBOR WINTER HARBOR Member FDIC 4 BH Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, May 15, 1996 Multitude of activities planned for bicentennia Bar Harbor residents have scheduled many activities to celebrate the 200th an- Road. A buffet dinner will be : niversary of the town's incorporation as 6:30 p.m.; Eden on Feb. 23, 1796. 26 - The Bar Harbor Music will sponsor its 13th Annual New May ers Concert at 8:15 p.m. at the Ba 15 - The Abbe Museum and the Bar Congregational Church; Harbor Historical Society will mark the 26-27 - The Bar Harbor Ch town's bicentennial by opening a joint ex- Commerce will sponsor its ai hibit at the museum near Sieur de Monts show from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Spring in Acadia National Park; 28 - The Bar Harbor Music 18 - The Sixth Annual Great Strides will sponsor a Jazz Night at 8:1 Walk to cure cystic fibrosis will begin at 9 the Kebo Valley Golf Club, Ea a.m. with registration at Emerson Junior Road. A buffet dinner will be S High School. The walk will start at 10 6:30 p.m.; 31 - The Bar Harbor Music a.m.; 24 - "Celebrate Bar Harbor," spon- will sponsor will sponsor the Ha sored by the Bar Harbor Chamber of Festival String Orchestra in con Commerce, will kick off a three-day p.m. at Blackwoods Campgro weekend with a Friday evening torchlight phitheatre, Route 3, Otter Creek parade in downtown Bar Harbor; Fortier will be the conductor. 25 - The YMCA will sponsor a scaven- date is Aug. 1. ger hunt for children; August 25 - The YMCA will sponsor the Sev- enth Annual Bar Harbor Lobster Race. 2 - The Bar Harbor Music Fes sponsor the Bar Harbor Festiv June Orchestra in performance with The Bar Harbor Historical Society will tor Francis Fortier at 8:15 p.m. a have displays at the Jesup Memorial Li- Harbor Congregational Church; brary, Mt. Desert St., Bar Harbor, from 4 - The Bar Harbor Music Fes mid-June to mid-October; sponsor the Festival Gala Bar 8 - The bicentennial celebration will Festival String Orchestra with C continue with a "Vintage Fashions & Francis Fortier at 8:15 p.m. at 1 Tea" at George S. Bowdoin's La Rochelle Valley Golf Club, Eagle Lake (Maine Seacoast Missionary Society) on buffet dinner will be served at 6: West Street; 5 - The Island Arts Associati 8 - The YMCA will sponsor its 13th Fair will run from 9 a.m. to 6 annual 5K race and Fun Run. Contact the Agamont Park; YMCA at 288-3511 for the time and 6 - A band concert will begin location; at the Baptist Church on the Old I 17-21 - The Artists' Symposium will bor Road in Salisbury Cove; take place at the College of the Atlantic on 9 - The Bar Harbor Music Fes Eden Street. An art auction will benefit sponsor the Bar Harbor F Allied Whale and the Stanwood Wildlife Chamber Orchestra and Chorus i Sanctuary in Ellsworth. For additional p.m. concert, with the locatio information, call 794-3543; announced; 18-July - A display of quilts "by our 11 - The Bar Harbor Music foremothers" will be shown at the Jesup celebrates its 30th anniversary Memorial Library, Mt. Desert Street; Bar Harbor Bicentennial with 22 - The YMCA will sponsor its Fifth Harbor Festival Chamber Orche Annual waiter and waitress race; Chorus in an 8:15 p.m. concert. I 22 or 23 - The Blessing of the Boats will tion will be announced; take place at the Bar Harbor waterfront. 16-18 - Directions Craft Show held at MDI High School, Route July and August gle Lake Road). The hours are Town Band concerts will be held at 8 Desert Island. (NEWS Photo by Brian Friday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Satur A hauntingly wild beauty marks the p.m. Mondays and Thursdays at the Vil- Swartz) Sunday; shoreline of Acadia National Park on Mount lage Green in Bar Harbor; 17 - A blueberry-pancake b The Arcady Music Festival Summer will be held at the Masonic Hall Concert Series will run from July 22 to the MDI Rotary Club, will begin at 11 a.m. Street; 13 - The bicentennial celebration will Aug. 26, with 8 p.m. performances sched- at the Athletic Field: 17 - The Jesup Memorial Libr continue with a day-long event, "From uled at the College of the Atlantic on Eden - A Town Band Concert will be held hold its annual book fair from 9 a Women's Hands," featuring quilt docu- Street. For additional information, call on the Village Green; p.m. at the library on Mt. Desert mentation, a quilt display, and craft dem- 288-2141; 4 - Fireworks will be fired over 23-24 - The Bar Harbor Cha constrations. A 1796 Luncheon will take The Bar Harbor Music Festival will Frenchman Bay from the municipal pier Commerce will hold its annual a place at the YMCA on Mt. Desert Street; mark its 30th season with performances starting about 9 p.m.; from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. slated from July 7 to Aug. 11. For ad- 14 - A Native American Festival will 5-6 - The Downeast Dulcimer and Folk ditional information, call (212) 222-1026 be held at the Abbe Museum. For ad- September Harp Festival Concerts will begin at 7:30 through June 30, (207) 288-5744 beginning p.m. at the Bar Harbor Congregational ditional information, call 288-3519; 13-14 - As part of the bicentenn July 1; Church on Mt. Desert Street; 14 - The Bar Harbor Music Festival bration, colonial and Civil War Church tours will be available at St. 6-7 - The Downeast Dulcimer and Folk will sponsor a Tea Concert at 4 p.m. at tors will camp at the Athletic Fi Saviour's Episcopal Church, Mt. Desert Harp Festival will be held from 12 noon to Breakwater 1904, 45 Hancock St.; more information, call 288-5103; Street. Call 288-4215 for additional 5 p.m. at Agamont Park or at the Bar 19 - The Bar Harbor Music Festival 21 - The Bar Harbor One-Hal information; Harbor Congregational Church in case of will sponsor a performance by Francis thon will start at 10 a.m. at the The Robert Abbe Museum in Acadia rain; Fortier, violinist, and Tana Bowden, pian- Field. National Park will feature several work- 6-7 - Maine Crafters will hold a craft ist, at 8:15 p.m. at the Bar Harbor Congre- shops during the summer. For additional gational Church; October fair at MDI High School on Route 233 (the information, call 288-3519. Eagle Lake Road); 20 - The 38th Annual Downeast Fair 31 - The YMCA will hold its 7 - The Bar Harbor Music Festival will will be held from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. at the Children's Halloween Party. July open with Epic Brass at 8:15 p.m. at the Church of Our Father, Route 3, Hulls - The MDI Rotary Club will sponsor a Cove, with a bake bean supper at 5 p.m. December Bar Harbor Congregational Church; blueberry-pancake breakfast beginning 12 - The Bar Harbor Music Festival and an auction at 6 p.m.; 6-7 - The Island Arts Associati at 6 a.m. at the AtHletic Field; will sponsor a piano recital at 4p.m. at the 20 - The Mt. Desert Garden Club Tour Fair will be held 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., 4 - The Bicentennial Independence Bar Harbor Congregational Church; will be held. For additional information, and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday, at Day Parade, sponsored by the Bar Har- 12-13 - The Bar Harbor Chamber of call 276-3921; Harbor Municipal Building, 93 bor Chamber of Commerce, will start at Commerce will sponsor its first photogra- 21 - The Bar Harbor Music Festival St.; the Athletic Field at 10 a.m.; phy show from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. For ad- will sponsor a Pops Concert at 8:15 p.m. 7 The YMCA will holds its 4 - The Seafood Festival, sponsored by ditional information, call 288-5103; at the Kebo Valley Golf Club, Eagle Lake Children's Christmas Bazaar. Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, May 15, 1996 BH 5 Sand Beach claimed both by Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor The signs in Bar Harbor point National Monument, the MDI to Acadia National Park, and the land was renamed Lafayette Na- signs in the national park point to tional Park on Feb. 26, 1919. That Bar Harbor. The two co-exist - name stuck until Jan. 19, 1929, and even merge in certain loca- when the park was renamed tions on Mount Desert Island. Acadia. Ironically, the summer folk Many people helped to create who built cottages on Mount De- the park and improve it. John D. sert Island and created an island Rockefeller Jr. donated about society not matched in the late 10,700 acres to the park, includ- 20th century provided money and ing the shoreline from Sand insight to preserve the island's Beach south to Otter Cliffs, and natural beauty. Led by George also built some 50 miles of car- Dorr, later called the "father of riage roads in the park or along Acadia National Park," wealthy its boundaries. philanthropists slowly acquired the land that became the nation- al park. Bar Harbor serves as Some parcels were initially donated by summer residents. the stopping point for The Beehive came first, donated most visitors headed in 1908, to be followed by other into the park. scenic sites. Some, like Sieur de Monts Spring, almost got away. Dorr did not know that the Today, Acadia National Park spring, bubbling on land owned occupies land on MDI, Schoodic by Fountain and Serenus Rodick, Point, and Isle Au Haut. The existed. He learned about it after park spreads across much of Bar two MDI residents decided to Harbor, whose political boundar- bottle the spring water and at- ies interdict the northern part of tempted to buy the land. MDI. Major attractions such as The investors started to build a Sand Beach, Great Head, pump house, but ran out of mon- Thunder Hole, Otter Point, Cadil- ey. Knowing the Rodick family The surf rolls ashore at Sand Beach, a popular in Acadia National Park that actually lies within Bar lac and Dorr Mountains, most still wanted to sell the spring, attraction for both native Mainers and tourists alike Harbor. Dorr inquired as to the price. He (NEWS Photo by Brian Swartz) carriage roads, and Witch Hole Pond lie within Bar Harbor, rein- was told $5,000. Bar Harbor businessmen had as- utes left in which to reach the words" from the businessmen, forcing the town's claim that Dorr gained first refusal on the sembled the cash to buy the Village Green, a mile or more "but the spring was mine, and while a municipality, it's also property, "and there the matter spring. They knew Dorr sought away," Dorr recalled. "There became, as it proved, one of the part of a national park. rested," he wrote. "There to incorporate the site in a pro- was no time to spare. I made up foundation stones on which the Bar Harbor serves as the stop- seemed to be no need for haste." posed national monument; op- my mind on the spot to take the future park was built." ping point for most visitors head- In a United States that craved posed to the idea, they only option." Working with the Hancock ed into the park. With its bottled spring water, Sieur de waited for Dorr's option to expire Dorr asked Lynam to ride into County Trustees of Public Reser- overnight accommodations, res- Monts could not go long undevel- at 12 noon that day. Bar Harbor and inform the busi- vation, a group dedicated to pre- taurants, and stores, the town oped. One morning in spring "Cash in hand, they are wait- nessmen that he (Dorr) would serving MDI, Dorr acquired has become an integral part of 1909, Dorr was working near a ing by the clock on the village exercise his option to buy the some 5,000 acres by 1912. Two Acadia, so much so that when road when a friend, Harry green till noon shall come to spring. Lynam furiously drove years later, he proposed to Con- people say "Bar Harbor," they Lynam, suddenly appeared, make the purchase," Lynam in- his team into town, arriving gress that the land become a na- think "Acadia," and when they driving a two-horse team and formed Dorr. "What will you "with but two or three minutes to tional monument, which say "Acadia," they often mean carriage. do?" spare," Dorr would recall. His occurred on July 16, 1916. "Bar Harbor." He warned Dorr that several "There was but a scant 15 min- news evoked 'anger and hot Initially called Sieur de Monts Brian Swartz If it were still in effect, original Bar Harbor law would ban all autos If Bar Harbor residents had town. A car: continue the de facto ban against never repealed the by-laws Could travel no faster than 5 Supported by the Legislature them (the roads) fit for automo- automobiles in Eden. The issue adopted at a special town meet- (an act approved on March 28, biles would cost far more than miles per hour; pitted summer folk against year- 1903 extended the number of the taxpayers would consent to ing on June 30, 1899, the town Could not operate between 10 round residents; the summer roads from which Eden could would experience no problems pay." a.m. and 10 p.m.; colonists' influence even led ban automobiles), the anti-au- Finally there was economic with autos today. Could not be driven on most Fred Lynam to recommend post- toists forced an August 1905 vote blackmail. The autombile would That's because no automobiles main arteries. Automobiles were poning the vote until June 20, would be allowed within Bar at the Village Improvement As- spoil the town's natural beauty verboten at any time on Main "when the summer people could Harbor. sociation. Mitchell, Jessup, and "for that element in the commu- Street, Cottage Street, Mt. De- be here." In the late 1890s, a wealthy sert Street, Schooner Head Road Armory argued forcibly about nity which pays more than half With that motion denied, vot- (then the only route to Sand keeping those nuisance cars out. the (Eden) taxes and whose so- summer colony dominated social ers tightened the regulations, and political life in Eden (later Beach and Great Head), and oth- The petition they presented journ here mainly supports the stipulating that no one could op- commerce of the village." Bar Harbor). Such summer resi- during the meeting listed some er roadways. erate "an automobile (in Eden) reasons why automobiles should In other words, "money talks, dents as Dr. S. Weir Mitchell Town Clerk W.H. Sherman at- unless he has written permission stay banned. Eden streets were we expect you to walk." (from Philadelphia), Morris Jes- tested the copy of the town-meet- from the selectmen." Since they "too narrow, too curved, too The ban stayed. A "defiant mo- sup of New York, and Dr. Robert ing report. voted the summer colonists' line, hilly, and in places too heavy." torist" who rolled into Eden in Armory of Boston strongly op- In April 1900, voters decided at no one could obtain such There was an appeal to voters' the next few weeks ran afoul the posed the introduction of auto- another special town meeting to authorization. mobiles to their island paradise. civic responsibility: "To make Continued on Page 6 In those days, what the sum- mer people wanted, the town got, Proud To Serve Mount Desert Island and what the summer people Duffy's wanted kept out, stayed out un- For 99 Years. der penalty of the law. They Quarterderk wanted automobiles banned, so Happy 200th Bar Harbor! during the June 30, 1899 town Restaurant meeting, that's what Eden voters MDI Hospital did. The adopted by-laws did not 10 Wayman Lane, Bar Harbor "A Restaurant of Distinction Dedicated actually prohibit motorists from 288-5081 to Fine Food and Excellent Service." Eden, but made automotive trav- Enjoy The Upper Deck On The Waterfront! el so difficult that few people Community Health Center Family Health Center Women's Health Center One Main Street Southwest Harbor Bar Harbor Bar Harbor would bother to bring a car into Bar Harbor, ME 288-5292 6 BH Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, May 15, 1996 Success of Green Mountain Railway was short-lived Continued from Page 3 quented the Bar Harbor hotels were buy- the Green Mountain railway, which was ing or building MDI summer cottages. A built this year by Bangor capitalists (for long railroad trip brought them to a port the GMR's June 23-24 grand opening, near Bar Harbor, where they boarded a Clergue had hired a larger steamer to steamer for the remaining distance. ferry his investors and other people from Bored with their off-island train rides, Bangor to Bar Harbor). It is under the the summer folk believed one ride on the superintendence of Capt. Goodwin of Ban- GMR was enough; passenger numbers gor, who is disposed to be polite to us," he declined in 1884. People still reached the wrote. Cadillac summit via the toll road, so an A terrible drought had enveloped New angry Clergue dynamited it. This action England that summer. "The grass is gained him no friends on MDI, and when withered, almost dead; the fires are run- he subsequently sought a charter to build ning over Green Mountain," Godfrey an electric railway from Bar Harbor to wrote, "and it is a question of time and Eagle Lake, local opposition killed the continued drouth whether they will not proposal. overrun" MDI. Clergue hired crews to fight the fires, possibly caused by embers Clergue also failed to maintain his ele- from the locomotive (a photograph indi- ments-battered hotel. Foreseeing the ine- cates the GMR once had two). vitable, Clergue sold his railroad and Describing the day he rode the train, hotel, but neither lasted long. The new Godfrey wrote, "About 150 (people) went owners ran the cog railroad until late up the mountain to-day. The fires bor- 1892, finally losing everything to a sher- dered the track, and the atmosphere was iff's auction on Jan. 16, 1893. The hotel full of smoke, but we had a good view burned two years later, and the Mt. De- from the summit." sert replaced a locomotive damaged on If Clergue figured on 1884 being another the Mt. Washington cog railroad. A per- banner year, he was wrong. He had built sistent rumor claimed the Wauwinet sank To reach the Green Mountain Railway, wharf beneath Cadillac Mountain. (Photo his railroad in a changing marketplace. in Eagle Lake about the same time. excursionists crossed Eagle Lake on the courtesy of the Southwest Harbor Public The wealthy tourists who formerly fre- Brian Swartz steamer Wauwinet and disembarked at a Library) Original summer residents would be surprised at Bar Harbor today Continued from page 5 MDI residents; with support from George proved lifting all laws banning "prefer horses during the summer" a constable and first selectman. He paid his Dorr, he made some inroads with the automobiles from Eden. Voters immedi- newspaper reported, and bolstered by fine. summer folk. They favored building a sin- ately petitioned the Legislature (with the passionate appeals from Rep. W.H. Sher- On Feb. 13, 1907, the Legislature ex- gle highway for cars from Thompson Is- honorable W.H. Sherman still serving as man (the same Eden town clerk), the tended to Mt. Desert the legal authority to land to the southern edge of Bar Harbor. town clerk) to respect the local decision. Legislature enacted a law repealing the regulate automobiles, effectively banning A good compromise that was supported MDI automotive bans on March 19, 1913. them from that town. In March 1909, the by the Legislature in March 1911, it never The Legislature did so. Refusing to bow Two summers later, more than 300 Legislature adopted a bill banning the came to be. to the wishes of the summer people, who automobiles were registered in Eden. automobile from Mount Desert Island The reason was that a day later, on altogether. March 30, 1911, the Legislature lifted the The bill received strong support from ban on MDI automobiles only on the "cer- the summer colony and lukewarm sup- tain public highway leading directly Celebrate the Bicentennial port from the year-round islanders. One from Tremont to Trenton." This high- state senator, speaking in favor of allow- way roughly followed today's Route 102 with Dinner in ing cars on MDI, admitted the bill would and Pretty Marsh Road. pass - and that Eden voters could do This bill cracked the door to MDI auto the Historic Reading Room Restaurant nothing about it, anyways. If "the matter travel. At 10 a.m., Saturday, Feb. 8, 1913, is referred to the town" for a vote, "the Eden voters converged on the Casino in at the Bar Harbor Inn poor men of Bar Harbor would not stand Bar Harbor for an automotive gunfight. much show against the power of the mil- Eden selectmen had called a special lionaires who want to keep them (cars) town meeting to consider repealing the out," he said. ban against automobiles. The timing was Ironically, the same W.S. Sherman who right; most summer residents could not had attested the original town-ordained reach Eden in time to vote. regulations in 1899 now sat in the Maine The proposal had its opponents. A hand- House. He was a strong proponent for bill circulated before the meeting urged allowing automobiles on MDI, but real- voters to support the "one automobile ized the bill would pass because "we were road" concept and to turn down the mo- snowed under by New York money." tion to repeal. Even as the bill passed, however, island Not many people paid attention, how- sentiment was shifting. Sherman lobbied ever. Of the 754 voters present, 503 ap- Sail On A Legend! NATALIE TODD cause Departing from A Bar Harbor landmark, overlooking the harbor Bar Harbor Call for FREE Brochure Reading Room Restaurant Captain Pagels Breathtaking Views & Exceptional Food Box 8 Serving Dinner Nightly 5:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. Cherryfield, ME Featuring Jim Stamp-Purely Grand Piano 04622 546-2927 288-4585 288-3351 800-248-3351 Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, May 15, 1996 BH 7 A farmhouse and surrounding outbuildings burn during the October 1947 fire on Mount A chilling landscape, ashes, debris, torched trees, and brick chimneys mark where a Desert Island. That fire burned 17,188 acres and causing more than $11 million in property raging forest fire rolled through the outskirts of Bar Harbor in October 1947. (NEWS File damage. Three people died. (NEWS File Photo) Photo) Memories are all that remain of the destructive 1947 Bar Harbor fire By Brian Swartz into the woods near Eagle Lake. Advertising Staff Editor By early Thursday, Oct. 23, the fire fighters thanked God for their near miss. and Acadia, not toasted by the flames, are shifted eastward, then literally blew up. The Bar Harbor Fire attained its apo- heavily forested. When a call reporting a grassfire near The west-northwest wind blew at speeds gee that night. Firefighters reopened As dawn broke on Friday, Oct. 24, the Fresh Meadow reached the Bar Harbor estimated at 40-50 miles per hour; a 70 Route 3 to Hulls Cove about 9 p.m., per- fire merrily skipped and danced in the Fire Department at 4:05 p.m., Friday, mile-per-hour gust was recorded at the mitting a landward evacuation that saw distance toward Great Head and Sand Oct. 17, firefighters reacted immediately. Coast Guard station in Rockland. two people killed in an automobile acci- Beach. Assisted by a slackening wind, Across Maine, fires burned in the Fire swirled into Bar Harbor, consum- dent. Through the night, the fire moved firefighters stopped the inferno at Otter drought-dessicated woods that fall; even ing the Jackson Laboratory, houses, and away from Bar Harbor, rolling over the Creek. a minor grassfire could do some damage summer cottages dating from the late eastern slope of Cadillac Mountain and A long-sought rain fell in Bar Harbor on before containment. 19th century. Withdrawing before the burning the vegetation on Dorr and Tuesday, Nov. 11, by which time the fire This one would be much worse. flames, firefighters warned residents to Champlain Mountains. Those peaks, par- was out - but not before burning 17,188 Firefighters controlled the Fresh evacuate. There would be no retreat by tially wooded about 50 years later, are the acres (29 square miles) and causing more Meadow blaze by midnight, and Fire land; Route 3 remained in flames. The best existing natural evidence that a fire than $11 million in property damage. Chief David Sleeper assigned men to pa- only way out was by sea. occurred; western MDI peaks like Beech Three people had died. trol the site during the weekend. While Bar Harbor residents were converging doused at the surface, the fire burned into on the athletic field, bringing with them the parched soil, simmering in the roots. what personal belongings they could sal- When the wind, a strong factor in the 200 YEARS STRONG. vage, when "flames suddenly came 1947 fires, backed into the northwest and downhill at us without warning, burning stiffened on Tuesday, Oct. 21, fire sudden- the trees and shrubbery around the ly erupted about 200 feet beyond the origi- field," a local woman later recalled. "All nal burn. Wind-driven flames rolled of us fled for the town landing." across the meadow and reached the for- Some 2,500 refugees packed the munici- est's edge. With the fire moving south and pal wharf and the surrounding streets. east, Sleeper called for help. Navy destroyers and Coast Guard cutters As did the Yellowstone fires televised waited offshore to evacuate the people nationwide a few years ago, the Bar Har- trapped by the fire, but a wind-raised bor fire quickly crowned. Tall pines and chop ended the seaborne rescue mission fir burst into flames some distance from after some 400 people had been pulled off the actual fire. Flames leap-frogged from the wharf by local lobstermen. crown to crown, spreading faster than Dancing maniacally in the darkness, firefighters could respond. fire burned along the shore toward Hulls The natural beauty that is Mount De- Cove to the north and Schooner Head to sert Island bears little witness to what the south. The firefighters incessantly transpired there 481/2 years ago. On Wed- battled the flames on the fringes of down- nesday, Oct. 22, the wind-driven inferno town Bar Harbor; as the wind suddenly crossed Route 3 near Hulls Cove (a mer- shifted to the north, blowing the fire back curial wind spared that village) and went on its track, incredulous soldiers and fire- T he coast of Maine is community we are both rugged and enduring- proud and grateful. We've a suitable site for a strong, spent many seasons helping ADD A LITTLE SCIENCE TO YOUR SUMMER VACATION 200-year old community. the region grow and pros- ATTEND THE JACKSON LABORATORY SUMMER VISITOR PROGRAM. We congratulate Bar per, and as the community Harbor on reaching its has grown stronger, so too The Laboratory's hour-long bicentennial year, and wish has our bank. Visitor Program features a brief video The Jackson Laboratory is located it continued success. Congratulations Bar on Route 3 just south of the village and a presentation by a member of Bar Harbor. For more As an independent Harbor, and thank you. of our scientific staff. information, please call bank and member of this Dawn Fernald at 207 288-6087. The Summer Visitor Program is offered at 3:00 p.m. on Mondays The Proud of Maine, proud of being the First. & Wednesdays-June through September* Jackson FIRST NATIONAL BANK Programs will not be offered on June 5 & 12, Laboratory of Bar Harbor and July 15, 17, 22, 24, 29, & 31. BAR HARBOR CALAIS EASTPORT ELLSWORTH HOLDEN SOUTHWEST HARBOR A Full Service Bank Member FDIC BH Bangor Daily News, Wednesday, , 1996 Bluenose provides year-round link between Bar Harbor and Nova Scotia BAR HARBOR - If you're looking for a short cut to the Maritimes, take the handicap accessible. Bluenose. The Bluenose sails year-round. The Almost two generations of Mainers schedule varies from daily crossings in have grown up with the knowledge that a high summer to thrice-weekly sailings in Canadian-owned ferry links Bar Harbor midwinter. Passengers disembarking in with Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. The Blue- Bar Harbor must clear U.S. Customs; nose, while named for a famed Nova Sco- those leaving in Yarmouth clear Canadi- tian yacht, has become a coastal Maine an customs. The Bluenose does not dock icon, as well-known in some circles as in downtown Bar Harbor, but at the Ma- Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse or Thunder rine Atlantic pier about a mile northwest Hole. of town. Marine Atlantic, a Canadian corpora- The Bluenose can cross the 100 nautical tion, operates the Bluenose year-round as miles (115 "land" miles) between Bar part of a fleet of ferries; others ply Cana- Harbor and Yarmouth in six hours. That dian waters between Saint John, New might seem a long time. However, the Brunswick, and Digby, Nova Scotia, and land route from Bar Harbor to Saint John, other ports in New Brunswick, Nova Sco- New Brunswick, takes at least 41/2-5 tia, Prince Edward Island, and hours, at a distance well short of the Nova Newfoundland. Scotia border. The Bluenose was designed as a roll- The crossing takes the vessel across the The cruise ship Kazakhstan II called at Bar will see 27 dates on which cruise ships will on/roll-off (RORO) ferry. The bow yaws Gulf of Maine and the approaches to the Harbor recently launching a busy year that visit MDI. (NEWS Photo by Brian Swartz) open so that cars and trucks can be driven Bay of Fundy. On a "good" passage, onto two vehicle decks that can hold 255 when the weather doesn't keep the pas- automobiles or 28 tractor-trailers. sengers off the outer decks, people gather 1996 cruise ship schedule Capable of hauling 1,000 passengers, at the rails to watch the marine life. Por- the Bluenose offers many comforts to peo- poises do occasionally break wave near Various cruise ships will be calling at Bar Harbor this year. The schedule ple making the six-hour crossing between the Bluenose, but don't expect to see them includes 27 visits, with the first made by the Kazakhstan II on May 3. Bar Harbor and Yarmouth. The ship has every trip. Whales breach in the gulf or an onboard cafeteria located near the sweep beneath the surface, perhaps wav- Vessel Date Time stern and a dining room overlooking the ing a fin or their flukes before diving for Regal Empress June 11 9 a.m.-4 p.m. bow. For entertainment, there are a mov- lunch. Seals do surface now and then; July 17 8 a.m.-4 p.m. ie lounge (to starboard), a casino (just off watch for them near the shore. Regal Empress July 24 the stern), a duty-free shop (also near the Sea birds abound in the gulf, particular- Regal Empress 8 a.m.-4 p.m. stern), lounges (with scheduled enter- ly around the rocky outcroppings along Regal Empress Aug. 14 8 a.m.-4 p.m. tainment by Canadian artists), and a vid- the Maine and Nova Scotian coasts. Pas- Regal Empress Aug. 28 8 a.m.-4 p.m. eo arcade. sengers should bring binoculars to watch Nantucket Clipper Sept. 10-11 Passengers can rent cabins at an ad- for eiders and other ducks skimming the 7 a.m.-6 p.m. ditional cost (the basic per-passenger fee wavetops; binoculars are good for Regal Empress Sept. 11 8 a.m.-4 p.m. does not include accommodations). The whalewatching, too. Regal Empress Sept. 15 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Bluenose has been renovated to make it Brian Swartz Veendam Sept. 15 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Regal Empress Sept. 18 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Silver Cloud Sept. 23 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Gripsholm Sept. 23 1 p.m.-7 p.m. Regal Empress Sept. 25 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Royal Princess Sept. 29 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Regal Empress Oct. 1 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Royal Odyssey Oct. 3 7 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Bar Harbor Hotel Royal Princess Oct. 5 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Bluenose Inn Veendam Oct. 5 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Queen Elizabeth II Oct. 7 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Hanseatic Oct. 10 1 p.m.-7 p.m. Silver Cloud Oct. 13 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Veendam Oct. 15 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Arkona Oct. 15 12 noon-7 p.m. VIAZZENTOP Regal Empress Oct. 16 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Royal Odyssey Oct. 17 7 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Your Weekend With the Stars Royal Princess Oct. 19 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Nothing cures spring fever like a four-star getaway at the only Bar Harbor resort to earn both the AAA Four-Diamond & Mobil Four-Star Awards of Excellence. Mizzentop & Stenna Breathtaking views of Nordica Guest Frenchman Bay Happy Birthday Buildings 97 elegant surrounded by Acadia rooms & 2 person National Park, a Bar Harbor suites with HBO, a/c, symphony of natural mini-refrigerator, some beauty with fireplaces on It doesn cost more to Heated indoor & stay at Bar Harbor's 200 Years! outdoor pools, spa, finest call today for fitness center, our surprisingly BAR HARBOR TRUSTWORTHY restaurant, gift shop, affordable springtime Great Room packages HOME CENTER Mobil RUST Award of Excellence 121 Cottage Street Guide WORTHY Benjamin 90 Eden Street Reservations Bar Harbor, ME Moore Bar Harbor, Maine 207-288-3348 HARDWARE 04609 PAINTS 04609 800-445-4077 STORES 288-5567